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Articles > Toning Mistakes + Solutions For Platinum Hair
June 21, 2019

Toning Mistakes + Solutions For Platinum Hair

open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A

    Aloxxi Ultra Lightener + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B

    20g Aloxxi TONES Demi 10V + 20g 10A + 10g 9B +7-volume developer

Platinum Hair Toning Mistakes + Solutions

You know those super icy platinums you’re seeing all over Insta? The ones your clients are saving and bringing to you to recreate? Those are the work of BTC Team Member Rachel Williams (@rachelwstylist), and she came to The BTC House in West Hollywood to show us exactly how she achieves the iciest of platinum tones. Keep reading for her breakdown of toning mistakes—and how to avoid them—and click here to get lifetime access to her entire 2-hour platinum video on BTC University!

 

Products Used

 

BUT FIRST…this ICY platinum is EVERYTHING!

open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A

    Aloxxi Ultra Lightener + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B

    20g Aloxxi TONES Demi 10V + 20g 10A + 10g 9B +7-volume developer

 

open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A

    Aloxxi Ultra Lightener + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B

    20g Aloxxi TONES Demi 10V + 20g 10A + 10g 9B +7-volume developer

 

Toning Mistake #1: Not Formulating Toner To The Hair’s Actual Level

This is a BIG ONE, and makes perfect sense if you think critically about formulation. Applying a Level 10 toning formula to Level 9 hair will not give you the results you want. For this icy platinum on her model Baleigh, Rachel lifted to a very clean Level 10. “If you lift to a Level 8 or 9, you can’t tone with Level 10,” she said. “You can get a ‘platinum’ Level 9 if you formulate correctly. You won’t get icy white, but it’s still beautiful. If you use Level 10 toner on Level 9 hair, you’ll soften the blonde, but you won’t get the tone you’re looking for.

 

Solution: Study your color line’s swatch book and don’t assume all blonde clients should be toned with a 10V. For this particular model, here’s a breakdown of the formula and the WHY behind it all:

  • 20g Aloxxi TONES Demi 10V: Violet helps neutralize yellow tones in lightened hair
  • 20g Aloxxi TONES Demi 10A: This particular Ash is a bluer base, which helps neutralize orange
  • 10g Aloxxi TONES Demi 9B: Adding a touch of Beige brings some warmth to the formula, which helps blonde tones appear brighter and lighter

 

Scroll through below to see how different formulas have different effects on Level 9 hair!

 

Toning Mistake #2: Rushing Toner’s Developer Time

Are your clients complaining that their tone fades quickly? You might be rushing through the toning process. We get it—you’ve already done a lot of work and your client wants to leave! But remember, the longer you allow toner to develop, the longer it will last.

 

Solution:

  • Choose a toning product that has longevity, and don’t rinse too soon! Rachel likes Aloxxi TONES Demi because she can leave it on for 30 minutes and it WON’T overtone. She usually lets clients process for 20 to 30 minutes when using Aloxxi TONES Demi, and with proper at-home care and minimal washing, the longevity is what her clients are looking for!
  • Get extra longevity with pre- and post-color service products. Aloxxi ColourPrime Pre-Colour Treatment equalizes the hair’s porosity, allowing hair to accept color better. Couple it with Aloxxi ColourLock Post-Colour Treatment to close the cuticle after a color service.

 

Tap through the slideshow to see swatches of Aloxxi TONES Demi at 30 minute development time!

 

Toning Mistake #3: Misusing Purple Shampoo

Purple-based shampoo is very useful…IF you (and your clients) use it correctly. When a client gets purple shampoo-happy and uses it every time she washes her hair, you could have a correction client on your hands later.

 

Solution: Use purple shampoo the right way, and teach your clients how to use it, too.

  • Rachel recommends Aloxxi Violet Shampoo because it has both blue and purple pigment to counteract all brassy tones—plus it doesn’t need to be diluted, so it’s easy for clients to use at home.
  • Explain the right way to use the product to clients: DON’T use it every time she washes, and if she’s overusing, have her cleanse with her regular shampoo first and leave the suds, then emulsify the Violet Shampoo into the suds.
  • If a client comes in and is guilty of overusing purple shampoo, use Aloxxi Clarifying Shampoo a few times before you start her color service.

 

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