How To Create a Subtle Ombré With the Olsen Dip Technique
A Rooty, Intentional Ombré That Looks Grown-In—On Purpose Blending brightness with rooty depth, the Olsen Dip is Bianca Hillier’s (@biancacolour) signature take on modern ombré—a soft, dimensional blend that looks grown-in on purpose. Inspired by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s undone glamour, this technique channels effortless cool without the upkeep. Consider this your sign: Ombré is having a major moment right now, and it's one of the top trending hair colors. Known for her lived-in balayage approach, Bianca’s go-to technique combines seamless transitions with high shine and minimal brass. Keep reading for toning tips, smart placement strategy, her go-to cotton trick (no foils here) and the biggest ombré mistakes she says to avoid. Need ombré inspo? Here’s a few looks from Bianca: [btc-insert-slideshow ids="799383 799120 799144 799125 799123 799385 799124"] What Is the Olsen Dip? Bianca describes this look as a luxury lived-in ombré—inspired by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s undone, rooty aesthetic. It combines: High contrast from dark roots to lighter ends Root-depth with midlength glow Controlled lift with high-gloss toning A strategic pattern that grows out seamlessly Watch for a breakdown of her technique and formula: View this post on Instagram A post shared by Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour) Bianca’s Ombré Technique: Step by Step Section and Paint With Purpose Bianca starts with her signature "Bianca Colour Placement": painting upward from the neckline [nape], never directly to the scalp. “I stagger the highlights so there’s never a harsh line of demarcation,” she explains. “In the neckline and around the front hairline, I always paint closer to the scalp to get that soft money piece.” To keep dimension and softness, she’s intentional about not overhighlighting. Her sectioning strategy includes: Large, minimal sections Clean, cohesive placement using a rat-tail comb She also warns stylists to avoid the most common ombré mistake: “The biggest mistake you can make trying to create ombré is not creating enough of a seamless blend with application of the lightener and when toning." Her fix? "The two-toned look and creating the perfect ombré requires proper placement and sectioning," she says. Lighten With Lift Control Bianca starts with Maria Nila Bleach Collection and uses low developer at the nape, gradually increasing it as she moves up the head. “I always add in Virtue® Color Kick® to keep the hair healthy through the lightening process.” To speed up processing, she uses diffused heat—a soft, gentle method that helps accelerate lift without compromising hair integrity. Use Cotton for Softness Instead of foils, Bianca often uses cotton for balayage transitions, which helps preserve softness at the root. See the cotton technique here: View this post on Instagram A post shared by Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour) Gloss With a Tonal Game Plan After lifting the hair about one level lighter than the target, Bianca shampoos with Maria Nila Structure Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, then preps with a basin treatment: “I use OLAPLEX Nº.1 Bond Multiplier™ and water as a stand-alone treatment. I tone directly on top of the OLAPLEX and water.” Her toning strategy is grounded in color theory: “My assistants need to know the colour wheel inside and out. It’s the only way to avoid that two-tone ombré fail.” Bianca builds tone with a slight shadow root that bridges the base and the ends with “something lighter than the natural base but darker than my ideal tips level of lightness." She finishes with the Maria Nila Sheer Collection demi-permanent line for shine and longevity. “Maria Nila makes the best toner that doesn’t fade brassy,” she says. “It gives so much shine and doesn’t over saturate and dull out the highlights.” This is how Bianca keeps curls healthy and luminous after lifting: View this post on Instagram A post shared by Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour) Cut Before You Highlight Bianca’s number one pro tip? Always cut before highlighting. “When clients get cut after the Olsen dip—the pattern I have painted is destroyed and there are dark holes in the tips.” Cutting after can compromise the placement, leaving the ends patchy instead of seamless. Want more tips like this? Check out our subtle ombré technique guide for sectioning, consultation, and application advice. [btc-banner id="794359"] How to Style Ombré Hair Bianca finishes the look with a soft, ropey texture that channels the Olsen twins’ iconic wet-boho aesthetic. Here's how she styles it: Apply shu uemura kaze wave curl mousse To Damp Hair “Scrunch the hair and make sure you’re showing up just before your hair fully dries.” Layer in Kérastase Gloss Absolu Glaze Drops for Shine To prevent dryness and maintain gloss in the highlights, Bianca recommends pairing the mousse with a shine-enhancing oil. “Complement the mousse with the Gloss Absolue Oil so it doesn’t dry the hair out and it still has all that reflective shine.” Add Virtue Refresh Dry Shampoo on Off Days When clients aren’t ready to wash, dry shampoo adds movement and volume. “Virtue Dry Shampoo will always give that super chic boho texture.” How to Maintain Ombré Hair Between Appointments Share this routine with clients to keep their ombré looking fresh between salon visits: In-salon: Toner refresh every 6–8 weeks At home: Sulfate-free care with the Virtue Recovery Shampoo & Conditioner Duo “Incorporating these items in your at-home routine will provide longevity to your color," Bianca says. Next Up: Not Too Blonde: 4 Old Money Bronde Toning Formulas
