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Articles > WATCH: HOW TO SAFELY HIGHLIGHT TEXTURED HAIR
August 31, 2020

WATCH: HOW TO SAFELY HIGHLIGHT TEXTURED HAIR

Watch This: How To Analyze Curl Patterns & Safely Highlight Textured Hair

Highlighting textured hair requires careful prep, formulation and strategic color placement in order to create beautiful, healthy pops of brightness. Enter: Joico Artistic Team Member Mecca Jones (@mjcolorsme). Watch her explain everything you need to know to slay the next head of hair that sits in your chair!

 

Who is this technique for?

According to Mecca, “Textured hair is not synonymous to one type of hair. It actually has a wide range from wavy to kinky.” This technique is for any client who wears their hair in its natural curl pattern the majority of the time. Be sure to ask your client how they wear their hair 90 percent or most of the time. This will help determine the level to lighten the hair. Straight hair reflects light where as curly hair absorbs light. This means if your client is going to wear their hair curly most of the time, you should add more highlights if they want to be bright.

 

Get More Video Techniques, Education & Inspo From Joico—Click Here!

 

How do you prep textured hair for a lightening service?

“CLEANSE, CLEANSE, CLEANSE!” says Mecca. Before lightening, it is important to remove any product in the hair with a cleansing shampoo like Joico K-PAK Clarifying Shampoo.
 
When shampooing curls, try to only vigorously scrub the scalp. When working with the midlengths and ends, work in a downward motion to avoid roughing up the cuticle. This can cause the cuticle to open further and be more susceptible to damage.
 
Once you have cleansed the hair, make sure you are protecting the hair at all costs. Joico Defy Damage Pro Series 1: Bond-Protecting Color Optimizer adds a layer of protection before any chemical service and doesn’t require formula adjustments. Simply spray section by section generously before starting your chemical service.
 

How do you formulate lightener when working on textured hair?

MYTH OR FACT: Textured hair is more fragile. FACT! Because of the variety in the shape of the hair fiber, the hair shaft can have “high spots” where the cuticle is slightly lifted compared to the rest of the hair fiber. Low and slow is the way to go when it comes to determining formulation for textured hair. Mecca likes to use Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder with a low developer like 10-volume because it gives her more time and prevents damage.

 

What is the recommended placement and application for this technique?

One of the things Mecca loves about working with textured hair is that “curly hair tells a story.” It is important to work from an organic placement to helps create a seamless overall look. “Look at the curls and determine where you want to see light,” explains Mecca. She recommends using an angled brush and feathering up to eliminate any harsh lines and ensure longevity and a seamless grow out. 
 

Formulas:

Prep: Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 1: Bond-Protecting Color Optimizer
 
Formula A (lightener): Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-volume LumiShine Developer
 
Formula B (base toner): Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 8SB + 5-volume LumiShine Developer
 
Formula C (mids & ends toner): Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 10SB + 5-volume LumiShine Developer
 
Post Treatment: Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 2: Bond-Strengthening Color Treatment
 
open color formula
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  • Formula A

    Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-volume LumiShine Developer

  • Fomula B

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 8SB + 5- volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula C

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 10SB + 5-volume LumiShine Developer