Articles > Blonde > Timeless Blondes: When To Use Foils vs. Balayage
Last updated: January 09, 2023

Timeless Blondes: When To Use Foils vs. Balayage

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The timeless blonde is a classic Hollywood hue—aka it NEVER goes out of style, its rootless, blended and requires maximum lift. So, what’s the secret to achieving this iconic blonde? Joico Celebrity Stylist Jill Buck (@jill901) is sharing it all! She’s walking us through how to formulate this classic shade. Her secret?  Switching up her lighteners and alternating foils and balayage (srsly!) 

 

We’re teasing everything below! Become a BTC-U member and get access to Jill’s entire blonding course!

 

1. How To Avoid Breakage At The Hairline

Does lifting the hairline stress you out? We get it, that’s why Jill grabs Joico Blonde Life Crème Lightener for the face frame and hairline, where hair is finer. It’s formulated with hydrating oils, allowing her to lift the hair without damaging delicate areas. Cream developers also have a slower processing time so Jill doesn’t have to rush through her other sections to achieve an even lift.

 

Pro Tip: Blonde Life Crème lightener is also perfect for retouching prelightened ends, since it’s not so harsh.

 

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2. Switch Up Your Lightener To Achieve Maximum Lift In Stubborn Areas 

When working behind the ear and back (where hair tends to be denser), Jill applies Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder to lift through the sections quickly. Using both a cream and a powder lightener in different areas will ensure that the delicate hair isn’t getting damaged, while the rest of the hair develops evenly.

 

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3. Natural Depth: When To Grab Foils!

Foils or balayage? If you struggle with this during your blonding service—don’t! Jill’s advice, check your client’s grow-out. This will help determine which application technique to use moving forward. Lucky for us, Jill shared this quick cheat sheet: 

 

  • Grow-out: A lot
  • Technique: Foils – Break through darker areas with foils and achieve maximum lift by using Blonde Life Powder Lightener.

 

  • Grow-out: Minimal
  • Technique: Open Air Balayage – Jill helps her blondes maintain brightness with minimal damage by opting for an open-air balayage application. 

 

Jill compares using multiple lighteners to a toolbox and says, “You need to have a tool for almost everything!” For stylists who are worried about switching up their formula, Jill suggests practicing on a doll head to see how each lightener works differently.

 

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Tap the beaker to see Jill’s formulas:

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  • Formula A (lightener front & Mohawk sections)

    Joico Blonde Life Crème Lightener + 5-volume Joico LumiShine Crème developer

  • Formula B (lightener back section)

    Joico Blonde Life Powder Lightener + 20-volume Joico LumiShine Creme developer

  • Formula C (root tap)

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 8N + 5-volume Joico LumiShine Creme developer

  • Formula D (mids toner)

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color .25g 9V + .75g 10N + 5-volume Joico LumiShine Creme developer

  • Formula E (ends toner)

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color Clear + 5-volume Joico LumiShine Creme developer

 

We’re LOVING this before and after:

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Learn Jill’s painting technique, sectioning secrets and more! Become a BTC-U member and watch her timeless blonding class NOW!

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