0
How-Tos > Warm, Fiery Red from Joico
January 19, 2014

Warm, Fiery Red from Joico

VIEW ALL PHOTOS VIEW SLIDESHOW
GET THE HOW-TO

Warm, Fiery Red from Joico

This color is smoking hot—it’s everything we love about bold pops of color! These rich apricot and scarlet tones are the perfect accent to this rich brunette shade. After more than two decades of subtlety and minimalism, In-Excess, Joico’s new trend collection, heralds a return to the extravagance of the 1980s.

But rather than reproduce the past, Joico International Artistic Directors Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton did as many fashion designers did for their spring 2014 collections and cleverly reinvented the most defining trends of “the decade of excess” for a new era.

For the color, Pemberton, fresh from her second NAHA win, found inspiration in the bold, bright hairstyles of the MTV generation—Cyndi Lauper, Madonna and Boy George, just to name a few. “The level of color intensity is the same, but because the updates are much more refined than the originals, the finished looks are very modern and wearable—not the least bit dated or over-the-top,” said Pemberton.

Pemberton also used a variety of color application techniques to recreate the wild, pattern-on-pattern “color and texture clashes” of artists Jean-Michel Basquiat and Frank Stella, mirroring the “graphic, layered complexity” seen on the spring runways of Ann Demeulemeester, Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Fendi.

“The result is excessive without being ‘excessive,’ explained Pemberton. “It’s excessive in a good way.” 

Want the cut? Get Joico’s Long, Asymmetrical Bob How-To!

Watch Joico’s In-Excess Photo Shoot!


 Subscribe to behindthechair.com 
On Paper Magazine!
SUBSCRIBE NOW

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Hair was previously colored Level 5 (medium golden brown).

    Color Formulas
    Prelightening Formula: VeroLight with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide
    Formula A: Vero K-PAK Color Intensity 3 parts Yellow + 1 part Orange (Yellow Foil)
    Formula B: Vero K-PAK Color Intensity Orange (Orange Foil)
    Formula C: Vero K-PAK Color Intensity Red (Red Foil)
    Formula D: Vero K-PAK Color Intensity 3 parts Pink + 1 part Red + 1 part Clear (Purple Foil)
    Base Color: Vero K-PAK Color ½ 5G + ¼ 6RC + ¼ 4N with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide

    Alternate Color Formulas

    Formula 3: Vero K-PAK Color 7XR with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide
    Formula 4: Vero K-PAK Color ¾ 7XR + ¼ 4FV with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide

  • 2

    Starting on the right (heavier) side, clip away a diagonal slice parting of hair that will be an overhang of base color. Working from a side parting, take a diagonal/vertical slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula approximately 1/8-inch from the scalp area through the midshaft and ends.

  • 3

    Take a second diagonal/vertical slice parting (leaving no hair between foils) and apply Prelightening Formula. Work behind the ear area and stagger the foils toward the perimeter.

  • 4

    Take approximately nine back-to-back diagonal/vertical slice partings, working from the side parting into the fringe area. Stagger the slice partings until the last slice parting near the hairline. Leave out the hairline, fringe and nape to create an outline of base color.

  • 5

    Proceed to the top section. Starting at the back (near the crown), clip away a diagonal slice parting of hair that will be an overhang of base color. Working from the side parting, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula.

  • 6

    Working toward the fringe area, take approximately eight back-to-back diagonal slice partings with Prelightening Formula. Leave out a small triangular section in the fringe and leave out the hairline. Also clip away a triangular section that extends from the foiled area toward the back and nape areas (approximately ¼-inch to 2-inches).

  • 7

    Working toward the fringe area, take approximately eight back-to-back diagonal slice partings with Prelightening Formula. Leave out a small triangular section in the fringe and leave out the hairline. Also clip away a triangular section that extends from the foiled area toward the back and nape areas (approximately ¼-inch to 2-inches).

  • 8

    Move down toward the hairline and work diagonally in the longer area, staggering foils into the fringe area again for approximately five slice partings. Take a horizontal slice parting, working in the length at the front (near the ear area). Repeat this process for a total of three horizontal back-to-back slice partings.

  • 9

    Completed foiling procedure.

  • 10

    Lift the hair to a level 8 (yellow/orange), then rinse. Shampoo with Joico K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply Joico K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply Joico K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry the hair. Proceed to Phase 2.

  • 11

    Starting on the right side, resection out the diagonal slice parting that will be an overhang of base color, then take two staggered diagonal slice partings and apply Formula A. Take one additional diagonal slice parting and apply Formula A.

  • 12

    Take two staggered diagonal slice partings and apply Formula B.

  • 13

    Continue with back-to-back staggered diagonal slice partings. Take two slice partings with Formula C, then two staggered slice partings with half Formula D (top) and half Formula A (bottom). Take a slice parting with half Formula C (top) and half Formula B (bottom), then take one slice parting with Formula D. Place foil over foils to prevent colors from bleeding.

  • 14

    Starting at the top section (near the crown), take two single diagonal slice partings and apply Formula A.

  • 15

    Continue taking back-to-back slice partings. Take a single slice parting with Formula B. Resection out the triangle section, then take two staggered diagonal slice partings with Formula B. Take two staggered partings with Formula C, then two staggered partings with half Formula D half Formula A (top and bottom).

  • 16

    Continuing in the same manner, take: two staggered slice partings with half Formula D (top) and half Formula B (bottom). Take a single parting with half Formula D (top) and half Formula C (bottom), then one single slice parting with Formula D.

  • 17

    Complete foiling procedure. Apply the Base Color to all unfoiled hair, process for 25 minutes, the rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, the rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator; leave in for 5 minutes, the rinse. Dry the hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products.