HOW-TO STEPS

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  1

  Create a standard horseshoe-shaped parting.

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  2

  Establish the basic head shape. Start by creating a lower taper with a clipper comb and 1 blade. The bottom of the comb should anchor to the hairline, and the teeth should point away from the head. Below the round of the head, change the angle of the comb to create a square layer.

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  3

  Taper low, then reposition the angle of the comb, creating a perfect square shape. The change of the cutting angle should occur well below the occipital bone. As you progress to the parting, maintain a square cutting angle.

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  4

  Refine the interior with fanning-over-comb. Begin where the change of the cutting angle occurred in the center back. This will remove any cutting marks, lines of demarcation and subtle weight areas. Be careful not to cut away the area in which the cutting angle changed.

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  5

  Work from the bottom to the top with an over-directed transition. This will connect to the crown and leave a disconnected exaggerated length toward the front. Work to the front hairline, directing each section to the original guide.

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  6

  Identify the highest point of the top. Section from side-to-side, direct the hair straight up and cut across the center top, creating a square layer. Section off the front hairline to maintain a disconnected element in front.

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  7

  Refine the hairline.  Reduce the comb size to a barber comb and use freehand and over-the-comb techniques, angling aggressively away from the head to ensure that the original low taper is not altered.

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  8

  Slide cut the top for support and elevation.

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  9

  With the razor, cut from the side to the center at the mid-shaft. Cut across the mid-shaft in a very large, isolated area to create or assist the wave pattern.

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  10

  Opposite from the first isolated area, use the razor in the opposite direction and cut a simple angle, entering the hair further from the previous point of entry and exiting toward the ends.

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  11

  Apply American Crew Ultramatte to slightly damp hair. Work the product from scalp to ends. Use a Mason Pearson brush and a blow dryer to style the final shape, creating the pompadour.

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  12

  Finished Look