HOW-TO STEPS

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  Start by separating the top from the bottom with a high horseshoe parting resting at the center of the recession. 

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  Begin with a basic vertical section. Enter the razor so the depth of cutting remains shallow to the ends of the hair. Target down using a sawtooth cutting angle. As a textured surface quality is desired, the structure of the haircut must remain solid.

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  Prepare for the transition by creating a t-parting at the center of the top of the head. Use a sawtooth cutting angle and shallow depth to show heavy separation in the surface. Cut with a target that rotates away from the crown, point-cutting from the outside-in to control the ends of the hair. Use rotating sections from vertical (behind the ear), to diagonal (at the recession), to front and back (on top). Follow the initial guide at the beginning transition section until the center back is reached, and onward to behind the ear on the opposite side. Continue to follow the cutting considerations while rotating vertically around the crown. Use overdirection at the recession to offer a slight adjustment in weight.

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  The top was addressed in the transition application.

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  Detail the hairline with a point-cut-over-comb. Use a shallow depth and sawtooth angle all the way around the perimeter. The shear will offer a more structured finish to the ends than the razor. Alternate targets to encourage the hair to lie in natural fall. TIP: Reduce wave with an opposing target.

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  For a medium hold and matte finish, use a moderate dosage of American Crew Liquid Wax to bring the hair to a moderate saturation.

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  Dry and style with the hands and use your fingers to elevate away from the scalp and separate the front.

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  Work with fingers until surface texture is rough with a high amount of separation. Use a blow dryer to help further refine the hair if needed.

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  At the front, razor-cut using an acute/simple or sawtooth angle to increase the separation and decrease the length. Achieve aggressive, natural-looking separation by removing length around the entire hairline.

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  Use the razor and cut to flatten the crown with isolated cutting with targets moving away from the crown. Add sawtooth cutting for isolated areas of separation.

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  Apply American Crew Liquid Wax on completely dry hair to bring the shape closer to the head and expose the isolated cutting applications. 

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  Using fingers to elevate hair away from the scalp and separate the front.

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  Assess the desired result and add final touches to achieve a balanced silhouette that is tight at the hairline and loose on top. 

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  More How-Tos
  The Hamilton Cut
  The 3 Best Men’s Cuts in the History of Guys
  Classic Fade Men’s Cut

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