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How-Tos > Razored Undercut Crop from TONI&GUY
July 1, 2011

Razored Undercut Crop from TONI&GUY

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Razored Undercut Crop from TONI&GUY

Joseph Marzioli, TONI&GUY Advanced Academy Director in Santa Monica, uses a razor to create Stella’s look from the Reflective Collection. The combination of undercutting and disconnection techniques creates a super versatile shape that clients can style a variety of ways.

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Before

  • 2

     Take a diagonal back horseshoe section from low recession to the top of the occipital bone. Start at the sides with a diagonal back section. Comb ‘T’ to the part, elevate to 45° and cut a guideline to sit at the hollow of the cheekbone.

  • 3

     Continue with diagonal back sections following the hairline. Comb ‘T’ to the part, elevate to 45° and cut following the guideline. Behind the ear take pivoting sections, continue to comb ‘T’ to the part, elevating to 45 creating graduation that cups the occipital bone. Repeat the technique on the opposite side.

  • 4

     Power dry and soften the weight line with deep parallel point cutting.

  • 5

     Release the top section. Take a radial parting from above the crown to the top of each ear. Isolate a triangle shaped section from the top of the radial through the recession on each side.  

  • 6

    Start in the center back with a pivoting radial section. Comb to 90° and razor cut rounding with the head shape, creating a disconnection from the underneath.

  • 7

     Continue with pivoting radial sections, combing and razor cutting at 90°.

  • 8

    Over direct the last section back to the previous one to allow for the recession area.

  • 9

     Release the triangle section. Take a profile section, comb to 90° and using the guide to length from the crown, razor cut from short to long.

  • 10

     Take pivoting radial sections, and overdirect to the profile guide. Repeat this on the opposite side creating an inversion. 

  • 11

     Blow-dry and personalize with a combination of deep parallel point cutting and slicing.

  • 12

    Finished Look

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