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How-Tos > How-To: Classic Crew
May 4, 2016

How-To: Classic Crew

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How-To: Classic Crew

Here’s the classic cut you need in your arsenal. Always handsome, always chic. Follow this how-to from American Crew Artistic Director Paul Wilson to create this masculine-meets-dapper ‘do.

Artist: Paul Wilson

HOW-TO STEPS

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    This look is ideal for a balanced headshape on hair with moderate-high density.

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    Start by separating the top from the bottom with a standard horseshoe parting resting at the center of the recession.

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    Anchor the comb at the lowest hairline, then pivot away from the head. Just under the occipital, change to a square cutting angle with the teeth of the comb pointing up. The desired result is low scalp exposure.

    When cutting with degrees of scalp exposure, visual balance is most important. Maintain visual attention from side to side.

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    Prepare for your transition by creating a T-parting at the center of the top of the head.

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    Use horizontal sections for a greater degree of weight, filling in the head shape as the head rounds to the top. Connect to the guide the horseshoe parting. Pull each section straight out and cut to the guide until the center-top is reached.

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    Divide the crown area into three sections. Within these sections, create horizontal subsections. Fully connect to your guides. Pull each section straight out, parallel to the floor. Keep the tension low but controlled.

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    Work up the head using basic sections that are easy to control until the T-parting above the crown is reached. Remain completely connected to the length previously established at the beginning of the haircut and use consistent and low tension.

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    Connect short across the top of the head using side-to-side sections. Pull each section straight up as you work until you reach the front hairline. Cut square across the top, going past the center-top of the head. Slightly overdirect the last sections to achieve weight that falls over the recession and increased length at the front hairline.

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    For a classic taper, fit in the hairline using a #000 blade and an all-purpose comb to cut against the grain.

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    For a high-hold, high-gloss finish, apply a moderate product dosage of American Crew Grooming Cream throughout hair and comb into place.

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    Use your palm to flatten the surface, followed by heat from the dryer with a concentrator to create a solid form with a smooth surface texture.

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    Lightly coat the surface of the hair with a small dosage of Grooming Cream.

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    After the style is in place, part the hair specifically and prepare to etch in the part with a clipper.

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    Use the #00000 blade and invert the clipper so the teeth rest exactly on the part. Lightly manipulate the clipper to offer a fine separation at the part.

    Pro Tip: The greater the movement of the clipper, the wider the part will be.

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