How-Tos > Hair Color > Dark Brown To Smoked Pearl Blonde Transformation
Last updated: July 18, 2024

Dark Brown To Smoked Pearl Blonde Transformation

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  • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

    Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

  • Formula B (root tap)

    LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

  • Formula C (gloss toner)

    Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

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Dark Brown To Smoked Pearl Blonde Transformation

 

For those clients with a dark base who want to transform into a brass-free, cool-toned blonde, try this smoked pearl blonde by Joico Global Artistic Director Laura Gibson (@lgibsoncolorist). This step-by-step guide utilizes two separate application methods for a high-lift transformation on previously color-treated hair in one salon visit.

 

Keep reading to learn…

  • High-lift strategies to safely yet effectively transform a dark, color-treated Level 4 base to a cool blonde
  • How to formulate a cool, smoky blonde toner
  • Laura’s foil placement hacks to build dimension

 

Who is the ideal client for a smoked pearl shade?

“The technique is for any client who wants to be overall lighter, cool-toned without damage or brass,” says Laura. She also notes previous chemical history, density, texture and length of the hair are all factors for the stylist to examine when planning their client’s transformation.

 

What are your must-have tips for following this application method?

  • To lift evenly: Place the foils back-to-back in horizontal sections for a global lift
  • To lighten the hair: Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightener is needed to remove pigment to create a perfect blonde, toner-ready canvas of hair
  • To tone the hair: Joico Demi Gloss BLUE VIOLET and Titanium Shades (9BV, 9T or 10T) are needed to minimize brass and process the cool shade

 

What does maintenance for this cool-toned blonde entail?

  • Salon maintenance: Laura recommends the clients get highlights every eight to ten weeks to maintain the color melt effect
  • At-home maintenance:
    • To maintain the blonde: If the client has porous hair or washes it frequently, opt for Joico Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner to combat brassiness
    • To maintain hydration: Keep the hair hydrated with Joico Moisture Recovery to nourish and prevent damage

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

    Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

  • Formula B (root tap)

    LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

  • Formula C (gloss toner)

    Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

Products Used

HOW-TO STEPS

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    1

    Divide the hair into six sub-sections.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    2

    Start by highlighting the back and side sections of the hair with Formula A. Leave the front hairline and mohawk out.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    3

    Highlight the entire hairline in fine, back-to-back foils. Place the foils in a diagonal-back placement.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    4

    Process the hair to desired level of lift. Rinse, shampoo and towel-dry.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    5

    Again using Formula A, highlight the mohawk section using a teasy-lite technique. Increase the depth of the backcombing across each section to create more depth and diffusion.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    6

    Root tap the regrowth area with Formula B to create a diffused color melt.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A (lightener on new growth)

      Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightening Powder + Joico Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 20-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula B (root tap)

      LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 5N Natural + 6NB Natural Beige + LumiShine Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    • Formula C (gloss toner)

      Blonde Life Demi Gloss 9BV Blue Violet + Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer 5-Volume (1:1)

    7

    Rinse then apply the Formula C gloss toner from roots to ends letting it process for 10 minutes.. Finish by rinsing, shampooing and conditioning with Joico KBOND20 Power Masque.

     

    Love this level of lift? Get it yourself with a free sample of Joico Blonde Life Silverlight Lightening Powder.

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