For those clients with a dark base who want to transform into a brass-free, cool-toned blonde, try this smoked pearl blonde by Joico Global Artistic Director Laura Gibson (@lgibsoncolorist). This step-by-step guide utilizes two separate application methods for a high-lift transformation on previously color-treated hair in one salon visit.

Keep reading to learn…

• High-lift strategies to safely yet effectively transform a dark, color-treated Level 4 base to a cool blonde
• How to formulate a cool, smoky blonde toner
• Laura’s foil placement hacks to build dimension

Who is the ideal client for a smoked pearl shade?

“The technique is for any client who wants to be overall lighter, cool-toned without damage or brass,” says Laura. She also notes previous chemical history, density, texture and length of the hair are all factors for the stylist to examine when planning their client’s transformation.

What are your must-have tips for following this application method?

• To lift evenly: Place the foils back-to-back in horizontal sections for a global lift
• To lighten the hair: Joico Blonde Life® SilverLight™ Lightener is needed to remove pigment to create a perfect blonde, toner-ready canvas of hair
• To tone the hair: Joico Demi Gloss BLUE VIOLET and Titanium Shades (9BV, 9T or 10T) are needed to minimize brass and process the cool shade

What does maintenance for this cool-toned blonde entail?

• Salon maintenance: Laura recommends the clients get highlights every eight to ten weeks to maintain the color melt effect
• At-home maintenance:
  • To maintain the blonde: If the client has porous hair or washes it frequently, opt for Joico Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner to combat brassiness
  • To maintain hydration: Keep the hair hydrated with Joico Moisture Recovery to nourish and prevent damage