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Formulas > Blonde Babylights + Gray Coverage
March 4, 2019

Blonde Babylights + Gray Coverage

By Jenn Malone

Jenn Malone @jmalonehair Haircolor Transformation Gray Coverage Blonde Babylights Makeover Color Correction How To Sun Kissed Natural Blonde Blonding Bright Dimension
  • Formula A:

    Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 10-volume developer

  • Formula C:

    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL 6.00 + 7.55 + 20-volume developer

  • Formula D:

    Redken Shades EQ 1oz. 6N + 1oz. 5NW + Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula E:

    Redken Shades EQ ½oz. 9AA + ¼oz. 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

Instagram via @jmalonehair

Wondering how BTC Team Member Jenn Malone (@jmalonehair) transformed natural gray regrowth and previously lightened strands into a dimensional, neutral blonde while simultaneously making her client look about 10 years younger? Babylights, and the help of fellow stylist Maritza Hernandez (@glam_hairnandez). Keep reading for their color formulas and detailed application breakdown!

 

Total Chair Time: 7½ hours

Pricing: $875 (Jenn prices color corrections by the hour.)

 

Who Did It

Colorist: Jenn Malone

Products Used

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A:

    Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 10-volume developer

  • Formula C:

    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL 6.00 + 7.55 + 20-volume developer

  • Formula D:

    Redken Shades EQ 1oz. 6N + 1oz. 5NW + Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula E:

    Redken Shades EQ ½oz. 9AA + ¼oz. 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

FORMULA STEPS

 

Jenn Malone @jmalonehair Haircolor Transformation Gray Coverage Blonde Babylights Makeover Color Correction How To Sun Kissed Natural Blonde Blonding Bright Dimension
Before

 

1. Prep the hair by applying Joico Defy Damage Pro-Series 1

 

2. Paint babylights throughout the entire head using Formula A, taking fine sections to ensure an even lift, and place in between foil. “Focus on breaking up her harsh line of demarcation and bringing the concentration of brightness to her face,” advises Jenn. 

 

Jenn Malone @jmalonehair Haircolor Transformation Gray Coverage Blonde Babylights Makeover Color Correction How To Sun Kissed Natural Blonde Blonding Bright Dimension
Note: Jenn says the small sections are the most important step because it helps diffuse that harsh line.

 

3. Apply Formula C to the hair left out of the foils and place in between foil. (Every single strand of hair should be in foil when you’re done.) Process for 35 minutes. “I knew that we would need to pull the babylights out of the foils before Formula C was done processing so that’s why we put this in foil as well, to protect the lightener from touching the permanent color,” shares Jenn.

 

Pro Tip: Fold these foils differently than how you folded the babylight foils so you know which strands of hair have which formulas.

 

Jenn Malone @jmalonehair Haircolor Transformation Gray Coverage Blonde Babylights Makeover Color Correction How To Sun Kissed Natural Blonde Blonding Bright Dimension
Your client should look something similar to this once the whole head is foiled.

 

4. Open the foils with the babylights and apply Formula B to the ends to brighten and break through the brassy tones.

 

5. Pull the foils and spray a mix of water and Olaplex No.1 throughout her head. 

 

6. Then, shampoo, condition and blow-dry.

 

7. Starting in the front, take small teased sections and apply Formula A and tip out all of the ends, leaving out any prelightened sections. Process for 20 minutes, carefully watching the foils to ensure her strands don’t over-process.

 

8. Shampoo, but do not condition.

 

 

9. Create the shadow root by applying Formula D from the roots to about 2 inches down throughout the occipital and down to the nape. Then, move back up top and continue applying Formula D through the parietal ridge and temples. Process for 15 minutes.

 

Note: When working with Redken Shades EQ, each minute the product is left on is an additional shampoo it will last through.

 

10. Rinse the shadow root, then apply Formula E throughout the entire head and process for 15 minutes.

 

11. Rinse again, then apply Joico Defy Damage Pro-Series 2 and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.

 

12. Rinse one last time, then apply Joico Defy Damage Protective Shield, blow-dry and style as desired.

 

Jenn Malone @jmalonehair Haircolor Transformation Gray Coverage Blonde Babylights Makeover Color Correction How To Sun Kissed Natural Blonde Blonding Bright Dimension
Before & after