Reds Browning Out Or Fading Fast? 3 Tips You Need To Know!

Take The Worry Out Of Formulating Red Hair Color 

The No.1 problem that ruins reds: You go to rinse and the color browns out. But if you’re starting with a darker base, you also don’t want hot roots! So, how do you find that perfect balance for the rich hue clients want? We asked Laura Gibson (@lgibsoncolorist), RUSK Global Artistic Director and colorist at Bomane Salon, her best tips! Just keep scrollin’. 

1. The Base: Avoid Going Too Hot Or Dark 

Starting with a darker base? Add gold to your formula. For example: Laura’s client has a natural Level 4 base and previously lightened, grown-out red through the midlengths and ends. Here’s how she formulated the perfect base color, plus pro tips on WHY! 

Base Formula: RUSKin10 50g 6C + 25G 8G + 20-volume developer 

• Add Gold: Instead of applying straight copper, Laura adds gold to the base formula. Sometimes, colorists will mix in a natural shade, but THIS could cause the color to brown out.

• Prevent Hot Roots: Formulate with 20-volume developer at the base. Any higher developer would be too hot on the scalp and cause neon roots, says Laura. Mixing the gold, copper and 20-vol. will have intensity, but keep the base rich. 

WATCH: Formulating red and ginger hair color—click here to subscribe!

2. Lowlights: Prevent The Dreaded “Brown Out” 

The KEY to achieving a dimensional red is no small task. It requires creating a rich base and a variety of tones that POP. That’s why we’re sharing Laura’s lowlighting formula for maximum impact and blending, plus smart formulation secrets to prolong the fading process!

Lowlight Formula: RUSKin10 6C + Zero Lift Balancing Lotion (equal parts)

• Apply Straight Copper: Adjust the color formula to match the starting canvas. While Laura added gold to the darker base, doing this on the previously lightened mids to ends would cause the lowlights to brown out. That’s why she formulated 6C without lift. 

• Slow Down The Fading Process: “If I use 20-volume when she’s already this light, I am just opening the cuticle even more and it will just fade faster,” says Laura. “The trick with reds is keeping the hair as healthy as possible.”

Pro Tip: Clients complaining about fading? Laura suggests sending them home with RUSK PUREMIX Fresh Pomegranate Color Protecting Shampoo and Conditioner to maintain brightness between visits. 

3. Cut Down Application Time By 50 Percent

Faster application times = fit more clients in! Here are a few ways to pick up the pace and keep your books busy with red color transformations. 

• Cut Down Processing Time: Laura formulates with RUSKin10 for base and lowlight formulas because the color processes in only 10 minutes. Plus, if a client has grays, it provides 100 percent coverage. 

• Use Large Foils: Less sections? Less time! Laura works with large slices and XL foil sizes to cut down the application by 50 percent. 

• Work Smarter, Not Harder: Use horizontal slices throughout the Mohawk for more impact. Do this instead of diagonal weaves that will dilute the tonality and not show up in the hair, says Laura.

Tap the beaker for all formulas including the gloss! 

• Formula A (base)

  RUSK Haircare RUSKin10 50g 6C + 25G 8G + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (lowlights)

  RUSKin10 6C + Zero Lift Balancing Lotion (equal parts)

• Formula C (gloss)

  RUSK Deepshine Permanent Color 7.4 + 7.44 + Zero Lift Balancing Lotion (equal parts)

Check Out The Before & After