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Last updated: September 28, 2022

Create Cool-Tone Blondes With This Foolproof Custom Formula!


This Custom Blonding Technique Is Modern Day Magic

We’re loving monochromatic shades this fall—especially this gorgeous icy blonde that can be tailored to every client. Urban Alchemy Educator Haley Cator (@haleycator) is revealing her go-to method for creating custom formulas to keep your blonde clients healthy and brass-free. Plus maintenance tips for clients in-between appointments!


Keep scrolling to learn how to use Urban Alchemy’s Prescription Blonde Toning Drops at the salon and at home!


1. Prep the hair with an exfoliating treatment

Haley always preps her clients with Urban Alchemy Salt Scrub Cleansing Shampoo to remove any built-up product residue on the scalp. Think of it as a massage treatment for hair that provides a clean base for color.


Want to create your own clean formulas? Shop Urban Alchemy essentials here!


Before (right) and after (left) Haley’s toning technique.


2. Adjust your custom formula to eliminate your client’s brassy tones

What’s Haley’s secret to creating custom toning formulas for her cool blondes? Prescription Blonde Toning Drops from Urban Alchemy. Why? These unique drops allow you to adjust the strength of your formulas to fit your client’s specific hair needs—and help you achieve their desired result. To apply:


Step #1: Start small. Avoid a strong purple hue by mixing only two drops per 10ml of product. If it’s not strong enough to eliminate your client’s brassy tones, apply more. Haley recommends not exceeding eight drops.
Step #2: Processing time is not one-size-fits-all. Haley shared a simple cheat sheet to determine processing time:
  • Before gloss: Allow mask to process for two to three minutes.
  • If you are skipping a gloss: Allow mask to process for 5 to 20 minutes max.


Pro tip: For her base product, Haley chose Urban Alchemy Prescription Care Mask to give her client an extra boost of moisture while busting through her brassy tones. Apply after shampooing to open up the cuticle, then seal the cuticle with conditioner to lock in the treatment!


Blonde Toning Drops diluted with Urban Alchemy Prescription Care Shampoo


Want more customizable colors and styles? Click here to enroll in BTC-U for unlimited access to hair color education. 


3. Avoid drying out the hair with this add-on!

The magic of Urban Alchemy is in all of the ways you can customize each treatment for every specific client. For instance, since Haley’s client has coarser texture she added one pipet of Moisture Alchemy to avoid drying out the hair. 


Pro tip: Make sure you are fully saturating the hair for an even tone—especially around the face. This is where the clients pay most attention, so don’t be afraid to take your time!


The toning process

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