6 Secrets to the Best Haircut for Beach Waves and Wavy Lobs
If you like your education with an ocean view, here’s big news from Sexy Hair. The company’s new academy literally kisses the sand in sunny Southern California! Located in Santa Monica, the space is sunny, airy and, according to Sexy Hair International Master Artist Ian Browning, it’s infusing new energy into the company’s popular education. “So much of our creativity comes from the environment around us, from people watching,” notes Ian . “This new location is a real shot of inspiration for our educators and our students.”
One thought inspired by the beach is…beach waves! Worn on longer lengths and on the season’s “It Cut”—The Wavy Bob or Wob—clients are crowding into salons this summer, begging for the sexy, casual, tousled look. As every stylist knows, this texture must be supported by the right cut, so we took this opportunity to pull Ian out of his brand new Structure in Motion Series One class (which marries conventional cutting techniques with the Sexy Hair body-con Structure in Motion system) for a private session on tips for creating the perfect cut for perfectly beachy waves!
1. Create a “Question Mark”
“Whether the client has long hair or a shorter cut, it’s crucial to maintain length,” says Ian. “You will enhance the waves by creating a cut that follows the shape of the head—in and out—like a question mark. You want to define the head shape without cutting layers that are too short. In this cut, the waves are the points of interest so everything about the cut should refine and define the waves.”
2. The “Down and Out”
This technique removes weight without removing length. The hair will immediately become bouncy with lots of movement. Section the hair at the occipital and create vertical subsections. Place open shears midway on top of the strand. Without ever closing the shears completely, nip or incise your way down the strand, moving your arm down and then out at the end of the section.
3. The “Up and Out”
This technique removes weight, not length. It creates negative space to support buoyant waves. Working up the head shape, create another horizontal parting and divide the hair into vertical subsections. Using the previous section as a guide, determine the amount of density you wish to remove. Place the open shear midway on the underside of the strand. Begin incising along the strand and as you cut, lift the strand up and then drop it down. You will create a v-shape which collapses on the previous section, but the shorter hair you created with the Down and Out technique will support the subsequent section, producing volume.
4. Over-Directed Radials
Avoid short layers in the top sections, but creating a few long layers will provide movement and lift. A quick way to create the right type of long layers is to create four, pie-shaped sections radiating from a center point on the crown. Lift each subsection straight up, place your shears over the top of the section at the tips and as you incise, over-direct the section away from the face, ending parallel to the floor. This will produce a slight layer and maintain length.
5. Frame the Face
Slightly shorter fringe sections will give beach waves a sexy, face-framing detail. Begin where the client wears her part (center or side). Create a vertical section at this point, and use the Down and Out technique to establish the desired length. Continue working in vertical sections throughout the fringe area, directing all subsequent sections to the original vertical fringe section.
6. Style with Beach Spray and a Twist
Beach waves look the most modern when they’re allowed to air dry. To encourage movement, Ian sprays damp hair with Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Renewal Beach Spray, divides the head into vertical sections and twists each section in alternating directions. Then he dries the hair with a diffuser, or allows it to air dry.
For more information on classes at the new Sexy Hair Academy, visit www.sexyhair.com.
