5 Color Correction Tips For Clients With Dark Bases
How To Avoid Warm Splotches, Cancel Unwanted Warmth & More Mistakes
If your client has a dark natural level (or previous hair color) and wants to go blonder, read this! We’re here to tell you how to avoid a splotchy application, cancel unwanted warmth, formulas and more. Keep scrolling for tips from the best in the biz.
1. Avoid Hot Spots With This Painting Technique…
Have you ever rinsed your client with a dark natural level just to find an uneven, splotchy application that reveals warm spots? Have no fear: Moroccanoil® Global Ambassador Gareth Williams (@garethwilliamshair) has the fix.
Start by heavily layering lightener on the midlengths, and feather it upward in a smooth line using a zigzag pattern. Layer until full saturation is achieved to avoid dried-out lightener that creates hot spots. This is how your finished application should look:
Photo Credit: Instagram via @garethwilliamshair
Join Moroccanoil®‘s Artistic Team for THREE DAYS of networking, education, parties and MORE—click here.
2. Clients with Leftover Box Dye? Use This Application Trick!
When working with clients that have previous black color, start the application in the front—here’s why:
“Most times, black dye is saturated on the top and sides of the hair during at-home applications. So, I want the lightener to process longer there,” Houston-based hairstylist and educator Kierra Taylor (@kierrastaylor) explains.
Pro Tip: Start with 15-volume developer in the front and bump the level up to 20-volume as you get to the back of the head.
3. Try This To Cancel Unwanted Warmth:
One of the biggest problems with lightening dark bases is all of that brass! Kierra has the solution with a formula that cancels unwanted warmth without a drab end result.
Check out that raw lift:
Photo Credit: Instagram via @kierrastaylor
- Formula A (lightener): Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Clay Lightener + 20-volume developer
- Formula B (all-over toner): Moroccanoil® Color Rhapsody Permanent Cream Color 6.7/6Gr + developer
- Formula C (hairline toner): Color Rhapsody Permanent Cream Color 7.13/7BG + developer
See the balanced end result below:
Photo Credit: Instagram via @kierrastaylor
4. For The Perfect Golden Bronze, Screenshot This Formula:
Balayage and blonding expert Janae Miller (@janaeraquelmiller) is calling this shade “Golden Bronze,” and it’s totally on trend with all of the warm, golden blonde requests clients have been making this year. Plus, you’ll be able to base break and tone all in one step. Get her formulas below!
- Formula A (lightener): Blonde Voyage Powder Lightener + 15-volume developer
- Formula B (base break): Color Rhapsody Permanent Cream Color 9.13 + 10-volume developer
- Formula C (all-over gloss): Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 7.2 + 9.0 + 9.13 (equal parts)
Photo Credit: Instagram via @janaeraquelmiller
5. In The End, You’re The Professional…
Sometimes, our clients don’t know what’s best for their hair. For clients with previous black hair color, it may be best to set up a plan for a multi-session transformation to maintain the integrity of the hair and not put it through too many stressors (especially when it’s already compromised!)
“Allow the black to dye to grow out so you can maintain the integrity of your hair,” Kierra recommends. Then, when the hair’s in a healthier spot, you can approach the desired look again.
Want more education from Moroccanoil®? Click HERE to join them in Las Vegas on September 10-12, 2023.
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