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Articles > Blonde > 4 Blonding Mistakes & How To Fix Them
October 17, 2022

4 Blonding Mistakes & How To Fix Them

evo pro hair bottle blonde how to avoid banding and breakage
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Photo Credit: Instagram via @tobey_pipsqueekinsaigon

How To Achieve A Clean Base When Blonding

Dark spots, bands and breakage when blonding—it’s not easy, but we’ve all been there before. So, we asked blonding experts to spill their secrets on how to achieve the perfect lift, avoid banding and the importance of creating a clean, even base. Keep reading to learn four common mistakes when blonding and how to fix them!

 

Mistake #1: Blasting The Hair With Lightener

“Low and slow is the way to go when using powder lightener,” says Lauren Cooper (@laurencoophair), Co-owner and Creative Director of Etcher Salon (@etchersalon) and evo Education Team Member. To gently lighten the hair while preserving integrity, use a low-volume developer. Here is Lauren’s formula for a bright balayage:

 

  • Foils: evo bottle blonde powder lightener + 10-volume developer  
  • Wet Balayage: bottle blonde powder lightener + 20-volume developer on existing blonde ends
  • Roots (toner): 20g evo hue-verse demi-permanent color 8 + 5g 8.03 + 5g 8.1 + 6.5-volume developer 
  • Ends & Face Frame (toner): 20g hue-verse demi-permanent color 10.37 + 10g 10.1 + 30g Clear + 6.5-volume developer 

 

Check out her gorgeous end result:

laurencoophair lauren cooper hair evo bottle blonde
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Photo Credit: Instagram via @laurencoophair

 

 

See the blonding transformation from start to finish! 

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by LAUREN COOPER ⚡️ (@laurencoophair)

 

Mistake #2: Not Trusting Your Gut! 

Hair integrity is always your top priority when blonding! Clients may come in with an unachievable end-goal in mind, but it’s our job as professionals to guide them in the right direction. Make sure to be honest with your client and let them know the risks.

 

Pro Tip: If you feel that 10-volume developer is too low and 20-volume developer is too high, mix half and half to get 15-volume developer. “That is the perfect middle ground,” says Tobey Farmer (@tobey_pipsqueekinsaigon). That way you will be able to achieve your desired lift while preserving the hair’s integrity.

 

Check out some bright blondes with soft blends created by Lauren & Tobey! 

 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @laurencoophair

 

Mistake #3: Overlap Causing Damage

There is a lot to consider when taking on a blonding client—especially one with previously lightened hair. You need to be careful about compromising the previously lightened pieces.

 

To avoid damage, “Always be cautious of overlapping previously lightened pieces where the hair is already sensitized,” Lauren advises. She prevents overlapping by painting a conditioner or barrier cream over previously lightened midlengths and ends to protect them from touching the lightener when the foil is folded. 

 

Pro Tip: Drop your developer strength by one level around finer areas of the head like the hairline. These pieces are generally more fine and already lighter than virgin hair due to sun exposure, so they don’t need as much of a kick.  

 

Sometimes clients wait a little too long before visiting our chair!

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Photo Credit: Instagram via @tobey_pipsqueekinsaigon

 

Do this to ensure blend and avoid banding…

If you do see bands as the hair lifts, rinse the hair completely to remove all lightener. Then, strategically place fresh lightener on bands or dark spots. Lauren recommends using a demi-permanent color to tone. This will ensure an even tone! She loves using evo hue-verse demi-permanent color for this step.

 

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Photo Credit: Instagram via @laurencoophair

 

Mistake #4: Uneven Saturation 

This is the No.1 thing that will cause dark spots: uneven saturation. These occur when your application is uneven or inconsistent, so make sure the strands are fully saturated to achieve even lift. 

 

Pro Tip: If you run into this problem a lot, your sections may be too big. Use fine weaves so the color can fully penetrate the hair.

 

You’ve Created A Clean Base, Now What?

You’ve created the perfect base, so what’s next? Some clients may want to head to the bowl for a gloss, but some may be ready to turn things up a notch with some creative color.

 

The key to vibrant, creative-color looks is a clean canvas. When it comes to direct dye, the cleaner the better! That’s how Tobey is able to achieve such eye-catching creative color looks. 

 

To create this bright color-block pink, he used evo staino 30g Fuchsia + 30g Clear + 7g Flame.

 

staino direct dye color block blocking trend
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Photo Credit: Instagram via @tobey_pipsqueekinsaigon

 

Another problem our color clients love to remind us about? Color fading with vibrant tones—we get it! That’s why Tobey swears by staino, with 10 intense, intermixable shades that last up to 50 washes. Plus, Clear for those clients who want to dip into softer hues.

 

The intensity of your color work can be maintained for even longer thanks to evo fab pro. Simply add the appropriate staino formula to a fab pro customized color maintenance conditioner base and send it home with your client.

 

Click through to see more colorful looks created with staino! 

 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @laurencoophair

 

Fall is here and so are the requests for copper hair color—are you ready to deliver? Here are five copper formulation tips to freshen your skills! 

 

Products Used

 

*This content is sponsored.

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