3 Problem Areas for Curly Hair (And How to Solve Them)
Your curly- and wavy-haired clients are some of your favorites, but as you know, curls can go hand-in-hand with frizz, flatness and unruly shapes. Help your clients avoid these problem areas by following these suggestions from some of our curl experts!
1. A Triangle Shape
A triangle shape (flatness near the crown with more voluminous curls at the bottom) isn’t always a bad thing, but a lot of clients prefer to avoid it. Here’s how:
- Create layering in the last 3 to 4 inches of the hair. Creating shorter pieces releases weight and allows the curls to lift in the crown area, says The Salon by InStyle’s Creative Director Michelle O’Connor (@michelleoconnorbeauty).
- Create internal layers for more lift, says 2017 #ONESHOT Waves and Curls Shot of the Year winner Leysa Carrillo (@leysahairandmakeup). And for more volume at the roots, dry the hair using a diffuser and overdirection.
- When styling, place setting clips near the roots to lift hair away from scalp while it dries, says Michelle. Or just push the hair upward with your fingers (or even better, have you client lean forward) while you dry.
2. Limp Curls
The only thing worse than frizz? Weak, lifeless curls. Help your clients’ texture live up to its full potential with this tips:
- Use Ouidad’s Rake and Shake Technique:
- Apply Ouidad Advanced Climate Control® Heat & Humidity Gel
- Use your fingers to rake the product through the hair.
- Shake the hair back into place, helping to form the curl. Watch how it’s done in the video below!
- As you dry, it’s important to move the hair, says #ONESHOT nominee Joie Wallace (@joiewallacehair). Have your client hold her head slightly down and at an angle while you diffuse it, using your fingers to shake it and move the hair around. This will allow the curls to expand and dry with more volume and body.
- Refresh second-day curls by applying a cocktail of leave-in conditioner and water, or by curling random sections with a smaller barrel curling iron for more texture and body.
Unfortunately, with curly hair often comes frizz. Help your clients avoid frizz by doing these things:
- DON’T: Over-dry the hair.
- DO: Suggest helpful ways yours clients can protect their hair while they sleep. Pineappling (gathering hair into a loose top knot and securing it overnight) helps. Go one step further and suggest a Satin Hair Cap, says Leysa. In addition to eliminating frizz, satin caps help keep curls defined.
- DON’T: Forget to recommend different products depending on the weather. For example, in humid weather, hair is more prone to absorb the water that’s in the air, so recommend a strong-hold product that doesn’t add moisture.
- DO: Try an anti-frizz product like Sebastian Professional Dark Oil (Joie’s favorite).