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How-Tos > Rich, Chestnut Balayage
July 29, 2014

Rich, Chestnut Balayage

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Rich, Chestnut Balayage

BTC Member and Paul Mitchell Color Educator Cassandra McGlaughlin has done her fair share of balayage makeovers for her clients at Platinum Salon in Tampa, FL, so she decided to share her tried and true secrets with the BTC Community.

 

“Balayage is all the rage, but sometimes you need the incubation and control of foil,” Cassandra says. “This is a go-to technique of mine when I want a lived-in highlight but have a canvas that needs the lift that foil gives.” Starting with a previously-colored red canvas, Cassandra added cool, caramel tones and dimension to remove the red and even out the base. Here’s how she did it. 

 

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HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Formula A (base color): Paul Mitchell Shines XG 5N + equal parts Paul Mitchell Shines XG 5NB + 10-volume XG Processing Cream

    Formula B: Paul Mitchell Forever Blonde Synchrolift + 20-volume clear developer

    Formula C (toner): Paul Mitchell Shines 6N5N6A

  • 2

    Apply Formula A at the roots. “I love Shines XG as a base color because of the shine and depth it gives,” says Cassandra. “This formula is a super-rich chestnut brown that added depth without going too dark.”

  • 3

    Once the base color is applied, use a wide tooth comb to diffuse the line.

  • 4

    Create a horse shoe section from the parietal up. “I address this section separately because this is where the placement really counts for a super blended and natural look,” notes Cassandra. Weave in Formula B using foils, over-directing each section forward to increase the blend. Process to a Level 8. (Note: In this service, Paul Mitchell Shines 5N6A was used on the ends to neutralize and cover the previous red canvas).

  • 5

    Remove foils, and use your hands to blend and diffuse the line between the base color and lightener. Process for 5 to 10 minutes.

  • 6

    Rinse, shampoo with Paul Mitchell Awaphui Wild Ginger Moisture Lather Shampoo, towel dry and apply Formula C. Follow with Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger KeraTriplex Treatment.

  • 7

    Cassandra recommends a five-week retouch with Paul Mitchell Shines XG and PM Shines Top Coat to maintain color. She also sent her client home with Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Moisture Lather Shampoo and Keratin Cream Rinse.