How-Tos > Haircuts > How To Make His Fine Hair Look Fuller
Last updated: February 12, 2018

How To Make His Fine Hair Look Fuller

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Wouldn’t it be a wonderful world if every client in your chair sported the lush, “run-your-fingers-through-it-right-now!” texture of Jon Hamm? Yeah, but welcome to reality. Fine hair happens—in fact, 85 percent of men have some signs of thinning before they’re 50, according to Sam Burns, Paul Mitchell Master Associate. Here are some ways to coax the most out of less.


  • 1

    Crown Coverage
    When the client’s thinning occurs mainly in the crown area and the rest of his density if pretty hefty, try a slicked-back style, suggests Andis International Manager of Education and Style Aileen Nunez. “Keep the front longer,” she suggests. “A modified Caesar cut can also be effective when the crown is thin, because it draws the eye and hair forward. If the thinning is in the center of the head, consider a faux-hawk type of cut.”

  • 2

    Design Lines
    “The best cuts and styles for men with thinning hair are styles with a solid perimeter,” says Nioxin Design Team Artist Anthony Crosfield. “Be cautious when working in areas with lower density. Maintain length in these areas to create the appearance of maximum volume. My clients also love Nioxin Diamax—it’s a leave-in that actually increases the diameter of each hair strand.”

  • 3

    Hairline Hint
    Not every guy with thinning hair needs to wear it cropped. If the thinning hasn’t progressed too far, says Sam Burns, try a layered, shag-type style with bangs. “Men have very little hair distribution from the apex to the forehead,” he explains. “Girls have more hair in that area, but less in front of the ears. So don’t cut a guy’s fringe like you cut a girl’s fringe. Stand behind your client and overdirect the hair all the way to the wall! It’s a great solution for a receding hairline.”

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    Brush-Cutting & Point-Cutting…With Clippers
    Yep, clippers aren’t just for buzzing it all off. The tool can be used to create a variety of textures. In fact, anything that scissors can do, clippers can do, and then some, believes Wahl Director of Education Laura VanderMoere.

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    Tight Crop
    “When guys start to lose their hair, they often want to go all G.I. Joe and buzz it off,” says Hollywood Hair Guy Dean Banowetz (American Idol, X Factor, Dancing With the Stars, Shark Tank). “But not every guy is ultimately comfortable with a shaved head. I like to keep the hair short—clipper-over-comb the side and back. Keep it tight but not white-walled. If he’s thinning on top, graduate it so that it’s a little longer in these sections. I love using Bosley Pro Volumizing and Thickening Styling Hairspray on these clients. And I’ll often apply Bosley Pro Hair Thickening Fibers in sparse areas. I put it in an atomizer with a long nozzle so I can push it through the hair, right to the scalp, without messing up my style.”

  • Brush-cutting, for example, depending on the clipper position, can create internal texture while removing length. It’s done by holding the clipper in your fingertips with the blade facing down and away from you. Keep in mind that the top blade is the moving blade. Position the section of hair in your comb, and simply brush the moving blade across the top of the comb. If the blade is open, you’ll create more texture; if it’s closed, you’ll remove more length.


    Point-cutting with clippers achieves the same results as point-cutting with shears. Keep in mind that the more angled the clipper, the less hair you’ll remove; the more upright, the more hair you’ll remove. “The advantage to clippers,” notes Laura, “is that you can turn them in any direction—360 degrees. You aren’t limited by your body. And you won’t cut your fingers!”