How-Tos > Five-Section Cut For Updated Layers
October 2, 2017

Five-Section Cut For Updated Layers

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Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

Five-Section Cut For Updated Layers

Want to update a classic layered look? Try this cool honey blonde five-section cut. The cut creates short, choppy layers at the crown to reveal a completely new shape on clients with medium length, while the color takes her blonde strands and adds a touch of warmth and dimension. Here’s how Farouk Systems Creative Design Director Maurice Den Exter makes it happen.

Artist: Maurice Den Exter

COLOR FORMULAS

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

Products Used

VIDEO

HOW-TO STEPS

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

1

Create a diamond-shape section at the crown. This is section 1.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

2

To create section 2, create a parting from the side point of the diamond to the top of the ear, then divide the nape area starting from the bottom point of the diamond to the base of the head. Mirror this sectioning technique on the other side to create section 3.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

3

For sections 4 and 5, create a middle parting on the top of the head, starting from the top point of the diamond to the forehead and divide the section in two.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

4

Start the cut in section 1. Using 1-inch sections, comb the hair out 90 degrees and cut the hair parallel to your fingers. This is the stationary guideline. Continue using 1-inch sections and cutting to the guideline throughout section 1.

 

(Use a texturizing technique to add movement to the section if desired.)

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

5

Moving to section 2, start by creating 1-inch, diagonal-backward sections (they should be parallel to the parting from the side point of the diamond to the top of the ear). Then, over-project the section to the stationary guideline in the crown and point-cut the hair.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

6

Continue step 5 throughout all of section 2. Then move to sections 3, 4 and 5 using the same cutting pattern and technique.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

7

To create the fringe area, comb the hair to its natural fall, pinch the hair down and slide-cut the fringe to the desired length.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

8

Repeat the slide-cutting technique on the sides to connect the front with the back.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

9

Apply Formula A to the root area.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

10

Create a diamond-shaped section at the top of the head and apply Formula B.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

11

Following the diamond-shape section, take 1-inch diagonal sections and alternate applying Formulas B, C and D.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

12

Use foil to isolate the formulas. 

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

13

For the style, start by applying CHI Silk Infusion throughout.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

14

Then, use a medium CHI Ceramic Round Brush and the CHI Euro Shine dryer to create maximum volume.

Formula A:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color 1 part 7I + 1 cap 1N + 1 part CHI Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula B:

CHI Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 1 part 8C + 1 part Clear + 2 parts Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula C:

1 part Ionic Shine Shades Liquid Color 9CG + 1 part Color Generator 10 Volume

Formula D:

Ionic Shine Shades Color ½ part 8C + ¼ part 8RB + ½ part Clear + 1¼ part Color Generator 10 Volume + 2 caps CHI Ionic Shine Shades Color Violet Additive

15

Finished look

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