How To Cut Bobs, Layers & Shags—The Italian Way

The 3 Cutting Techniques Used to Cut the 3 Trending Italian Haircuts

The term “Italian Haircut” describes a family of Italian-derived haircuts that have gained popularity for their chic, effortless and romantic vibe. “Italian Haircut” is one of the most-Googled haircut trends and it has a few key haircuts under its umbrella including The Italian Layered Cut, The Italian Shag and The Italian Bob. Milan-based legacy brand, Framesi, has an education program centered around incorporating their own brand-specific techniques to create these trending haircuts.

BTC Editors visited Framesi’s North American headquarters to sit in on an educator training program where Framesi Design Group and Italian Style Team Members were trained by Education Coordinator and Master Stylist, Natasha Maconi (@natmasterframesi), to learn how to properly teach the below three techniques that are necessary to achieve Italian haircuts. For a glimpse of Framesi’s impactful education and if you’re ready to master the exact techniques required to achieve the highly-requested Italian cuts then read on.

# 1: The Italian Layered Cut—The Flower Technique

The purpose: The flower technique is most often used to create soft, organic-looking layers in cuts like The Italian Layered Cut to add soft volume, frame-framing pieces and curved airy edges. The technique mirrors the way petals of a flower fan out from a central point, hence the name.

Here are The Italian Layered Cut’s features:

• • Medium to long length with lots of long, soft layers
  • Designed for movement and body
  • Often styled with curtain bangs or face-framing pieces
  • Perfect for tousled, full-bodied blowouts

How to section and perform the technique:

1. Hair is divided into radial sections, like slices of a pie or petals of a flower
2. Grab the strands as if you were pulling together a ponytail, letting the shorter lengths fall out
3. These sections are then elevated and cut using the point cut technique in specific angles that radiate out from a central point on the head
4. Before styling, apply Framesi For-Me Shine Me Brightly Super Coat 119 to damp hair to enhance shine, combat frizz and give a “glass-like” finish 

Scroll for a look at The Italian Layered Haircut:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @theestallion

Photo Credit: Instagram via @kimkardashian

Photo Credit: Instagram via @sabrinacarpenter

Photo Credit: Instagram via @camila_cabello

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

# 2: The Italian Shag—The Anti-Gravity Technique

The Purpose: To remove weight and create lift, volume and movement in cuts like The Italian Shag, without changing the perimeter of the haircut.

Here are The Italian Shag’s features:

• • A modern, more refined take on the classic shag
  • Has layers, texture and sometimes bangs—but still very wearable
  • Often styled with a slightly “undone” finish

How to section and perform the technique: 

1. 1. On dry hair, divide into standard zones (crown, sides, nape, etc.)
   2. Lift the hair straight up from the scalp—usually 90 degrees or more (sometimes fully vertical)
   3. You may overdirect hair away from its natural fall to build more volume in specific areas
   4. Hair is typically cut at a vertical or diagonal angle to remove internal weight without creating harsh lines
   5. Use point-cutting, slithering or slide-cutting techniques for a more textured, lived-in finish
   6. Once you drop the section, the ends will naturally lift and separate—creating that floaty, weightless effect
   7. Before styling, apply Framesi For-Me Bring Me To The Beach Salt Spray 223 to damp hair then let dry for a full-bodied, tousled look

Scroll for a look at The Italian Shag:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @alexachung

Photo Credit: Instagram via @chloessevigny

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

# 3: The Italian Bob—Open and Close Technique

The Purpose: This scissor-over-comb method includes opening and closing the shears continuously while moving them through the hair. It’s used for blending, tapering and refining shapes in cuts like The Italian Bob.

Here are The Italian Bob’s features:

• • A slightly longer, looser bob—often shoulder-grazing
  • Soft, voluminous, with rounded ends instead of super-blunt edges
  • Styled with a natural wave or bend, not pin-straight

How to section and perform the technique:

1. 1. With the blades open, place the hair between the blades and use the comb to control the hair’s length and angle
   2. Close and open the blades to snip the hair gently as you move upward or along the shape
   3. The movement is small, soft and rhythmic—especially when blending
   4. Before styling, apply Framesi Morphosis Repair Plumping Mousse Leave-In to damp hair to hydrate, reduce frizz and add volume for a rounded, bouncy bob

Scroll for a look at The Italian Bob:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @selenagomez

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Photo Credit: Instagram via @lilyjcollins

Photo Credit: Instagram via @chrissyteigen

Photo Credit: Instagram via @framesiofficial

Want to learn more about the Italian haircutting, coloring and styling techniques your clients are asking for? Learn more from Framesi.