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How-Tos > Disconnected Cutting How-To from Joico Smoke and Mirrors Volume II
February 22, 2012

Disconnected Cutting How-To from Joico Smoke and Mirrors Volume II

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Disconnected Cutting How-To from Joico Smoke and Mirrors Volume II

Powerful and fierce, this dynamic cut combines sharp lines with bold disconnection. Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney supplies the cutting steps, and the entire look is amplified by the fearless color genius of Joico Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton.

HOW-TO STEPS

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    View of sectioning pattern.

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    Take a diagonal parting from the temple to the hairline; use graduation to cut length to produce a neat, fitted head shape. Continue working toward the back of the ear. Note that the partings will become more vertical. Do not over-direct, as this will create heaviness and weight (particularly when working with thick hair).

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    Continue with the traveling guideline. Connect into the back, nape area; cut to a length that fits neatly to the head shape (a flatter head shape).

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    Continue working toward the center back area in the same method as before. The guide is a traveling guide. Pay particular attention at the crown area; reduce tension to accommodate the hair growth pattern.

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    Work neatly and methodically by cross-checking at regular intervals to ensure fluidity throughout the haircut; remove corners or weight.

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     Continue working on the back nape area. Note that the partings are now being slightly overdirected to the last guide; this will produce more weight and length, as the back area is slightly asymmetrical.  The degree of overdirection will vary based on hair texture, length, and density; extreme overdirection will create more length and weight on one side.

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    Continue working through the opposite side area, but note that the area behind the ear will not connect.  Take a diagonal parting for the first guide and cut to the desired length. Continue with traveling guideline and pivot around the side area; the last remaining parting will be more vertical. Always elevate, lift and apply tension to remove any excess weight.

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    Note the lengths above the temple area; this will not connect to the underneath area, this area is disconnected.  The overhanging lengths will be lightened when working through the top area.

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    Take a diagonal parting from the front hairline that extends to the crown area and cut to the desired length. Ensure the hair is cut short enough to reduce internal weight while retaining a longer softer fringe area; the length will connect to the back, crown area.

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    Continue with the same sectioning pattern. The remaining partings are overdirected to the first parting. The top length is longer and will overhang the side areas.  Return to the original parting (on the top of the head) and repeat on the opposite side; note there will be fewer partings to connect, as this side is slightly lighter. Remove sufficient length so that the top is not heavy and bulky.  Blow-dry the hair smooth by using the wrapping technique. The haircut will be completed when the hair is dry.

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    Use a chipping and pointing technique to further refine the hairline.

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    Repeat pointing and chipping in nape and hairline areas. Always work with the natural shape of the hairline.

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    Take partings from the crown area to the front hairline; chip and point to remove any excess weight. View of perimeter and disconnected top and side areas. 

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    Repeat chipping technique throughout the top area.

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    Refine hairline around the ear area as before. Use a combination of chipping and pointing.

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    Refine perimeter by pointing and chipping into hair.

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    View of hair prior to color placement. Always reassess the haircut after color placement.

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