0
How-Tos > Color Correction: Level 5 To Level 9
August 3, 2017

Color Correction: Level 5 To Level 9

  • Natural/Starting Level:

    5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

  • Formula A:

    Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

  • Formula B:

    1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

  • Formula C:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

Color corrections and new clients often go hand-in-hand. And with 30 years of industry experience under her belt, Joie Wallace (@joiewallacehair), a stylist at Flawless Unisex Hair Salon in Hampton, Va., has seen her fair share of hair in desperate need of a refresh. Find out how Joie took her client from a reddish/orange Level 5 with too much regrowth to a soft vanilla blonde Level 9!

 

Want to be featured? Tag your pics to #behindthechair!

 

Pricing: “In my salon, color correction starts at $200 depending on the severity of the process plus the expectation of the desired color the client wants to achieve,” shares Joie.

 

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Natural/Starting Level:

    5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

  • Formula A:

    Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

  • Formula B:

    1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

  • Formula C:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

Products Used

VIDEO

HOW-TO STEPS

    • Natural/Starting Level:

      5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

    • Formula A:

      Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

    • Formula B:

      1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

    • Formula C:

      Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

    1

    Before

  • 2

    Start by doing two rounds of PRAVANA Artificial Hair Color Extractor to remove as much of the red-orange color as possible and to prepare the hair for a base color.

  • 3

    Once the hair is dry, apply Formula A starting at the ends and make your way up to the roots. Process for 22 minutes. “You must go up two levels higher to achieve the base color you want after using PRAVANA Color Extractor,” advises Joie. “I chose an ash color to defuse any underlining reddish/orange tones that remained on her hair.”

  • 4

    Then, shampoo and blow-dry the hair until it is completely dry. Backcomb balayage with Formula B, painting the formula on both sides of the hair to create a higher blonding effect. Joie mixed this formula twice in two different bowls—one for the nape to the crown and one for the sides to the crown.

  • 5

    For extra lift, use Colortrak Professional Balayage Haircoloring Film. Process until desired lift is achieved. “If the back of the hair lifts to the desired color before the top, remove the wrapping from the back only so the air will slowly process down in the nape area,” advises Joie.

  • 6

    Once the entire head reaches the desired level, rinse the hair and apply a mixture of Olaplex No.2 and Wella Post Treatment Service Conditioner. Leave on for 10 minutes, then shampoo with Fanola No Yellow Shampoo.

  • 7

    Then, tone with Formula C and let process for 8 to 12 minutes, checking every 3 minutes to see if the desired tone is achieved.

  • 8

    For the style, curl her hair using a 1½ inch curling iron but leave the ends of the hair straight. Apply Sebastian Professional Dark Oil for shine and amika Undone Texture Spray for volume and texture.

    • Natural/Starting Level:

      5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

    • Formula A:

      Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

    • Formula B:

      1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

    • Formula C:

      Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

    9

    Finished look

    • Natural/Starting Level:

      5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

    • Formula A:

      Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

    • Formula B:

      1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

    • Formula C:

      Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

    10

    Finished look—alternate view

    • Natural/Starting Level:

      5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

    • Formula A:

      Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

    • Formula B:

      1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

    • Formula C:

      Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

    11

    Finished look—alternate view

    • Natural/Starting Level:

      5, with 4 inches of Level 2 new growth

    • Formula A:

      Wella Professionals Koleston 8/1 + 20-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder 

    • Formula B:

      1 scoop Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Clay Lightener + 1 scoop Wella BLONDOR Extra Cool Blonde Powder + 1 scoop Wella MAGMA by BLONDOR /89 + 40-volume Wella BLONDOR FREELIGHTS Developer + ¼ Olaplex No.1

    • Formula C:

      Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9V + Shades EQ 9T + Redken Shades EQ Processing Solution + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder

    12

    Finished look—alternate view

More from
Joie Wallace