How-Tos > Classic Undercutting How-To from TONIandGUY
July 20, 2011

Classic Undercutting How-To from TONIandGUY


Classic Undercutting How-To from TONIandGUY

Zak Mascolo and the TONI&GUY Artistic Team use a classic undercutting technique to transform their model. The end result is full of volume, definition and unstoppable swing.



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    After prepping the hair with a cutting lotion, a horseshoe section is started from the mid recession on each side. The horseshoe should sit just below the crown. 

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    A diagonal back section is taken from the horseshoe down to just in front of the ear. Comb the section T to the part, elevate to 45°, and cut parallel to the diagonal back parting. Continue taking diagonal back sections, utilizing the same methodology and a traveling guide. Behind the ear, the diagonal back sections are taken through to the hairline at the nape.

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    Continue working in this manner until just past the center of the back.

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    Repeat the same approach on the opposite side, checking for balance as you go.

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    The weight line can be softened by elevating the hair in the comb, and breaking into the line with deep parallel point cutting.

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    A new horseshoe section, 1-inch in depth, is placed horizontally from high recession on both sides.

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    Starting in the back, comb 1-inch panels to natural fall, elevate to 45° and razor the lengths onto the underneath guide.

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    Work around the head shape to avoid overdirection. Behind the ear forward, a disconnection is created by continuing the line to the front hairline at this same length, disregarding the shorter guide underneath. 

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    A profile section is taken at the natural part. The section is elevated to 90°, and utilizing a guide from the crown, layered through the front. Pivoting diagonal forward sections are over-directed to the profile guide, creating a soft inversion throughout the top. Repeat on the other side of the natural parting. 

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    Sheers are used to dilute weight throughout the shape by combing vertical sections straight out and gently working the tool against the strand. (Key point: Start no closer than 2/3 the length of the section).

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