HOW-TO STEPS

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  1

  HIGHLIGHT FORMULA: Enlightener™ Powder Lightener + 20-volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

  Note: To create a highly-textured look, mix density of weaves and slices, working through hair to lighten 80% of natural color. This can be achieved by randomly leaving out bits of natural hair.

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  2

  Create a circular panel at top of head, as shown above. Circle should sit approximately three inches back from front hairline, depending on size of fringe and point of distribution.

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  3

  Subdivide hair with a vertical parting from circular panel to top-of-ear on both sides of head.

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  4

  Divide back panel in a separate vertical parting from the circle panel to the nape. Divide and clip away the front fringe section.

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  5

  Starting at nape, apply foils with the Highlight Formula, horizontally up toward the circular section, through entire back of head.

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  6

  Place foils with Highlight Formula vertically through the side panels.

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  7

  Work through the fringe by placing foils diagonally to create more texture. Place foils into the top section in a radial pattern.

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  9

  This technique can be customized in many different ways. Here’s a placement idea, along with color formulas, you can try on your client:

  The diagram above illustrates a full-head fashion color application. Use the original sectioning pattern, but use the appropriate full-head application with the darkest color in Panel 1, a lighter color in Panel 2 and a bright formula in Panel 3. Use the brightest color in Panel 4. Depending on the focal point or depth you choose, you can swap color application in Panels 3 and 4 to accentuate the color differently.

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  10

  This technique can be customized in many different ways. Here’s a placement idea, along with color formulas, you can try on your client:

  The diagram above illustrates a half-head foil placement idea. Repeat the original subsectioning, but only work foils through the sides, fringe and top. For this placement, Ian recommends a diagonal brick-lay pattern for the foils in the side panels.