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How-Tos > Ashy Blonde + Shadow Root
May 7, 2018

Ashy Blonde + Shadow Root

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Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Ashy Blonde + Shadow Root

The shadow root is here to stay—clients love its low-maintenance look—so check out how @phildoeshair creates this on-trend ashy blonde/shadow root combo. He uses three shades of Joico LumiShine Silver Blue demi-permanent liquid color to give the iciest blonde possible.  

Manufacturer: Joico, @joico

COLOR FORMULAS

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Products Used

VIDEO

HOW-TO STEPS

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

1

Before

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

2

Starting on the left side (at the parietal ridge), take horizontal weaves and apply Formula A. Place the lightener where it’s needed and avoid pieces that have already been lightened.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

3

Take a back-to-back weave and apply Formula A. Weave out the blonde pieces and highlight the darker pieces. Continue taking fine, 1/8-inch sections and weave using Formula A. Once the head shape widens, take staggered bricklay foils and apply Formula A.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

4

At the natural parting, start to take slices in back-to-back, staggered bricklay foils. Remember to apply Formula A where you need it and not overlap the already-blonde pieces.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

5

Continue to take slices and weaves, leaving very little hair in between. Do this until you reach the middle of the head.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

6

Repeat on the opposite side.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

7

In the longest part of the fringe, take back-to-back partings in a staggered foiling method.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

8

Place a few (three to five) vertical slices in the back right (at the point of disconnection above the occipital).

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

9

Process until the hair reaches the palest yellow. Rinse with Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner, then dry the hair.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

10

Section around the parietal ridge, down the middle, and across the crown.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

11

Starting in the nape, use Formula B to apply a shadow root approximately 1 to 2 inches from the scalp using a “teardrop” application (1 inch in the front, 2 inches in the back).

 

Pro Tip: For a seamless blend, apply color horizontally in 1/8-inch sections and comb with a wide-tooth comb for even saturation.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

12

Apply the shadow root until you reach the crown area where the highlights begin.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

13

Once you reach to the top of this section, melt Formula B into Formula D. Do this for the front and sides too. Place on a foil, then use a dry brush to melt and comb through to blend.

 

Pro Tip: To avoid creating spots or lines in the back area, do not start melting the two formulas until the hair is longer than the nape.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

14

When working on the sides, take vertical sections. Apply Formula B and melt into Formula D. Using your hands, massage the point where the two colors meet to melt the formulas together. Continue this technique until you reach the front.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

15

When working into the front, the hair will become shorter and shorter. As this happens, your applications will have less of Formula B (the Level 6) and more of Formula D (the Level 10). Repeat on the opposite side.

 

Pro Tip: Place a foil on top to protect the section.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

16

Move to the top section of the head. Apply Formula B to the entire crown section as a shadow root, approximately 1 inch out from the scalp.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

17

Take horizontal ¼-inch sections. Comb the section to tease the root area. Apply more of the shadow root with Formula B.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

18

Weave out a horizontal subsection.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

19

Apply Formula C to the bottom of the section. This will melt with the shadow root.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

20

On the top of the section, apply Formula D to the ends. Repeat this technique in the crown section two more times.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

21

Continue working this technique into each side of the top. Do the right side first, then the left.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

22

Adjust your melting technique to the length of the hair. Repeat on the opposite side.

 

This is the pattern: Formula B, Formula C, Formula D / Formula B, Formula D

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

23

Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. Rinse well, then shampoo and condition with K-PAK Color Therapy.

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

24

Finished look

Formula A

Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

Formula B

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 6SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula C

1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 7SB + 1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 9SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Formula D

2 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 10SB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

25

Finished look

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