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How-Tos > How-To: Caramelized Balayage
April 8, 2016

How-To: Caramelized Balayage

  • Natural Level:

    5

  • Formula A (balayage):

    1 part Goldwell Silklift Strong + 1 ½ part 30-volume Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer

  • Formula B:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 8N + 9V

  • Formula C:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9NB + 9V

#hairgoals #hairenvy #hairinspiration—whatever you want to call it, Jonathan Serna @jandrewserna, has nailed it with this gorgeous, caramelized balayage makeover. We were dying to know how Jonathan, a stylist at Salon Sessions Studio in Pasadena, Calif., created such perfectly sun-kissed dimension, and lucky for us, Jonathan graciously shared his secrets! Check it out!

 

 

Want to be featured? Check out BTC’s Instagram and
tag your pics to #behindthechair!

 

Total Price
Color application (for a half head of balayage): $190
Haircut: $100 alone; reduced to $60 when added to color service
Grand total: $250

Colorist: Jonathan Serna
Manufacturer: Goldwell, @goldwellus; Redken, @redken

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Natural Level:

    5

  • Formula A (balayage):

    1 part Goldwell Silklift Strong + 1 ½ part 30-volume Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer

  • Formula B:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 8N + 9V

  • Formula C:

    Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9NB + 9V

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    In the front: use Formula A in diagonal back sections starting in front of the ear and working up toward the parting, skipping every other section. Leaving every other section uncolored creates a more dimensional look, says Jonathan.

  • 2

    Using Formula A, balayage a strong face frame on the hairline from Zone 2 through the ends, making sure to fully saturate the ends, and feathering up from the ends toward the midlengths of each section.

  • 3

    Continue this pattern on both sides of the head, wrapping each highlighted section in plastic wrap.

  • 4

    In the back: starting in the nape area, once again take diagonal back slices on the left and right side, creating a V-shaped section. Balayage every other section working up toward the top of the crown, making sure to fully saturate the ends.

  • 5

    Process for 30 to 45 minutes, until a Level 9 yellow is achieved. Then rinse and shampoo.

  • 6

    Apply Formula B at the roots only until yellow is minimized and slightly deepened in tone to a Level 8 (about four minutes).

  • 7

    Apply Formula C from midlengths to ends, and process for five minutes.

  • 8

    For the last two minutes of process time, melt Formula B into Formula C to create a blend between the two shades, melting the roots into the middle sections.

  • 9

     Follow with Bumble and bumble Quenching Shampoo & Conditioner

  • 10

    Apply Bumble and bumble Styling Creme in Zone 1 only for root lift and added density.

  • 11

    Apply Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil at ends for heat protection and as an end sealant. Rough-dry at roots for added volume and around brush lengths for a smooth finish.

  • 12

    Using the 1¼-inch Hot Tools Marcel Curling Iron, create a texture wave by curling in the midsection only, leaving the roots and ends straight.

  • 13

    After the curl set is complete, break up the waves with your fingers and finish with Bumble and bumble City Swept Finish to give a second-day finish to waves. Complete the style with a light layer of Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode Hairspray.

  • About two months after her original transformation, Jonathan’s client decided she wanted an even bigger change, so Jonathan chopped her mid-back-length locks into an ultra-texturized lob! “I decided to keep the length at a point where the color on her ends would still be prominent,” Jonathan shares. “This new shape complements her color perfectly.”