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Formulas > Color Correction: Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde
January 13, 2020

Color Correction: Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde

By Kristen Ewing

Kristen Ewing @kristen.lumiere Color Correction Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde Corrective Color Formula How To
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  • Formula A (lightener):

    Oligo Professionnel Blacklight Extra Blonde Lightener + 20- to 30-volume developer

  • Formula B (filler):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 7G + 8KG + 5- to 7-volume cream developer

  • Formula C (base):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura 7N + 7-18 + 10-volume developer

  • Formula D (ends toner):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 9V + 9AI + 5- to 7-volume liquid developer

  • Formula E (highlight):

    Oligo Professionnel Blacklight Extra Blonde Lightener + 10-volume developer

  • Formula F (lowlight):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 7NB + 5- to 7-volume cream developer

Instagram via @kristen.lumiere

When she posted this omg transformation to her Insta, BTC Team Member Kristen Ewing (@kristen.lumiere) kept it real af in the caption, “Sixteen hours, 1 million foils, hundreds of bumps in the road, 1 fried brain and we are here.” Color corrections take WORK, but when a client walks in with at-home black box dyed strands with the desire to be blonde, you know you’re in for quite the journey. Keep scrolling to learn how Kristen tackled this corrective color in two sessions with six different formulas!

 

Total Chair Time: 16.5 hours

 

Pricing: “I charge hourly so it is not confusing adding up totals at the end of the appointment. Processing times are also included,” shared Kristen. “For the first initial color correction I did not double book so I charged hourly, but for the second session I charged by the service because I was double booking.”

 

Watch The Video How-To Below

 
 
 
 
 
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5️⃣ things you didn’t know about this color correction: . 1️⃣ She had been using Clairol black from Sally’s for YEARS. Pulling it through the ends almost every time. Clairol in my experience can be extremely difficult to get out. . 2️⃣ My guest had very fine hair. Fine hair is easier to lift then medium or thick diameter hair. This helped me when I was lifting her hair. That’s how we went from 1-9 in a single session. Remember – Not all black can be lightened to blonde in one session. Sometimes it can never be lifted to blonde at all. . 3️⃣ Her hair did not accept the toner how I would have liked it to. We had done so much lightening the hair was no longer accepting color as it would normally. The result was a bit warmer BUT we were happy to be rid of the black 💯 Perfection doesn’t happen in one session. Especially where we started 💯 . 4️⃣I just so happened to have the filler color I needed. I don’t do color corrections often and I only carry what I will use in an 8 week period. So it was a Godsend that I happen to order a copper “just in case 😅.” . 5️⃣ This is the most “famous” post on my page. My IG story received 65,000+ views for all the steps I posted on this insane color correction. The IGTV step by step has 500,000+ views, 15,000+ likes, 650 comments and climbing. INSANE! . So if you have any questions feel free to pick my brain 🧠 #kristenlumiere

A post shared by The Austin Balayage Gypsy🌿 (@kristen.lumiere) on

 

Who Did It

Colorist: Kristen Ewing
Manufacturer: Malibu C, @malibucpro; Oligo Professionnel

Products Used

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A (lightener):

    Oligo Professionnel Blacklight Extra Blonde Lightener + 20- to 30-volume developer

  • Formula B (filler):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 7G + 8KG + 5- to 7-volume cream developer

  • Formula C (base):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura 7N + 7-18 + 10-volume developer

  • Formula D (ends toner):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 9V + 9AI + 5- to 7-volume liquid developer

  • Formula E (highlight):

    Oligo Professionnel Blacklight Extra Blonde Lightener + 10-volume developer

  • Formula F (lowlight):

    Oligo Professionnel Calura Gloss 7NB + 5- to 7-volume cream developer

FORMULA STEPS

First Session

1. Start by cutting her hair as short as she’s willing to go. “Because let’s be honest, after years of box color pulling through to the ends, either I will cut them or they will cut themselves (aka break off),” shares Kristen.

 

2. Perform a strand test to ensure her hair can handle lightener. The test strand on this client revealed what Kristen calls her worst nightmare: one to four levels of lift only.

 

3.  Then, apply Malibu C CPR and process under heat for 45 minutes. “It can remove one to three levels of color without touching the natural base,” shares Kristen. “It didn’t budge the color but what it did do was give me a perfect base for lightening.”

 

Kristen Ewing @kristen.lumiere Color Correction Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde Corrective Color Formula How To

 

4. Rinse, then lighten using Formula A and process each foil for one hour. 

 

Kristen Ewing @kristen.lumiere Color Correction Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde Corrective Color Formula How To
“Three and a half hours, 198 foils and 1½ lbs of lightener later, I was done,” says Kristen. // Instagram via @kristen.lumiere

 

5. Remove the foils once they’re done processing and pull on the hair to check its elasticity. No stretch = still intact!

 

6. Then, apply Formula B as a filler and process for 10 minutes. In the last 2 minutes, brush the formula down to even out the color. “The closest to the root lifted to a Level 10 so I needed to fill so I could drop it down to a Level 7,” shares Kristen.

 

7. Apply Formula C to the base and process for 10 minutes.

 

8. Next, tone the ends with Formula D and then brush it all together for a seamless blend.

 

9. Rinse, then apply your go-to conditioning treatment to add moisture.

 

10. Refine the cut while the hair is still wet, then style it smooth and finish refining the cut.

 

Kristen Ewing @kristen.lumiere Color Correction Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde Corrective Color Formula How To
The finished look after the first session.

 

Second Session

“When my guest came back in for her second session four weeks later, her filler was still very pronounced so I decided to do a combination of highlighting and lowlighting,” shares Kristen. “This would break through her natural base and bring dimension down through the midlengths.”

 

1. Apply Formula E as a highlight and Formula F as a lowlight. “I used my #rocknsplitfoilage technique to create a seamless blend without needing to root shadow or tease the hair,” says Kristen.

 

Note: Because her client had short hair, Kristen decided on a partial application instead of a full. If her hair was past her shoulders, Kristen says she would have opted for a full and she would have added lowlights and highlights to the underneath to break up the previous lightener application.

 

2. Let process, then rinse, blow-dry and style as desired.

 

Kristen Ewing @kristen.lumiere Color Correction Box Dye Black To Beige Blonde Corrective Color Formula How To
Finished look // Instagram via @kristen.lumiere