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Last updated: May 01, 2018

Remembering These 3 Tips Will Help Jump-Start Your Balayage Biz

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The Do’s and Don’ts Of Balayage and Blonding
In preparation for today’s Facebook Live, we put together some of Nancy Braun’s (@balayage_bynb) best balayage tips below! Then, watch her dish out new blonding and balayage techniques today at 2PM CT on BTC’s Facebook—AND it’s FREE, so all you have to do is WATCH! 



1. Tension and Diffusion

  • One of the most important, yet overlooked, aspects of balayage is the amount of tension used when applying lightener.
  • “Hold the hair with as much tension as possible,” Nancy advises. “The more tension, the flatter the painting surface, and the more evenly you’ll be able to apply the color.”
  • Also, if you find that you’ve applied the lightener too thickly, use the sharp point of a tail comb or a nail file to softly diffuse the build-up along the strand.


2. The Dos and Don’ts Of Face Contouring


  • Pull your client’s hair back during the consultation to evaluate her face shape. You may want to print out a face shape map to keep at your station, says Nancy.
  • Apply contouring color to the hair at natural fall.
  • Use light and dark colors when contouring. If you want to add width to an area, use a lighter color; to reduce width, use a darker color.
  • Make sure your lightener is the right consistency. “It should be creamy, like Greek yogurt,” notes Nancy, who also prefers 30-volume developer to control the results.



  • Forget to have all of these must-have balayage items on hand: Saran Wrap, butterfly clips, cotton, a balayage brush and lightener.
  • Use foils to isolate sections. Instead, use plastic.
  • Apply contouring highlights to thinning areas or baby hairs. You will not have enough hair to grab, and lightening these areas will just make them look thinner.
  • Get too heavy-handed at the root.


3. Two Go-To Blonde Balayage Formulas 
Need help getting started? Here are two of Nancy’s most-requested blonde shades in the salon. She does them both with balayage highlights, including heavy face-frame sections, and both shades feature cool, smudged roots for believable depth. 


Butter Blonde

Base and lowlights: 7.23/violet gold (permanent color at the base and demi-permanent lowlights)
Balayage highlights: L’Oréal Professionnel Blonde Studio Lightener + SmartBond Additive + 40-volume developer 


Vanilla Blonde

Balayage highlights: L’Oréal Professionnel Blonde Studio Lightener + SmartBond Additive + 40-volume developer
Base: L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Light 10.21 + 6-volume developer


Products Used

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