Platinum Reverse

When we discovered this talented young newcomer’s transformation on Instagram, we were stoked. Because flawless prelightening is essential to prime the canvas for any “raw” color technique…and to take it away once the client is tired of the look. Cassandra Laine of the aptly named Platinum Salon in Tampa, FL, and a Paul Mitchell Color Educator, shares her game plan for a flawless, roots-to-ends, platinum reverse.

“Before I begin any lightening process, I make a plan for addressing each canvas separately, planning the timing, the volume of developer and type of application I need to get to my desired result,” says Cassandra. “Timing is super important when evening out a canvas like this. I had to even out at least five different tones and levels, so I had an assistant help me with application so I could control my timing.”

Step 1: Address the six inches of natural Level 2 regrowth.
“My first step was to lift the Level 2 to Level 8. I used Paul Mitchell Dual Purpose Lightener + 30-volume developer. I was careful to avoid overlapping the lightener on any previously lightened hair. I used baby foils (foils torn in half or quarters) to incubate the regrowth and cold shaft with an overlay technique, leaving the ends outside the foils. My sections were extremely small to ensure even lift and saturation. I processed this hair to yellow/orange.”

Step 2: Address the darker portion on the ends.
“Once the regrowth was lifted to a similar level as the ends, I began my second application. I applied lightener mixed with 20-volume developer in foil packets to darker panels and processed everything to the yellow stage.”

Step 3: Kick the lightener into high gear.
“I knew that the hair needed a boost to get to the pale yellow stage of lift. So I removed the foils, and once everything reached a relatively even yellow, I applied the lightener + 30-volume developer over the mixture that was already processing on the cold shaft, careful to avoid coming too close to the scalp. From the edge of the regrowth, through to the ends, I applied a mixture of Paul Mitchell Dual Purpose Lightener + 20-volume developer + Paul Mitchell Shampoo One. I processed for 10 to 15 minutes until all strands lifted to pale yellow. (“I liken the energy in our developers to the gas in our car. The amount we have determines how far we can go. The second application of lightener was like a nitrous boost. It sped up the process and re-energized the lightener to push it just past the point at which most hair this dark wants to stop. This must be done with a very watchful eye and a two-person application”).

Step 4: Tone.
“After shampooing, I combined equal parts Paul Mitchell Ultra Toner Ash + 9P + 10-volume developer, applied it to all strands and processed 5 to 10 minutes. I finished with Paul Mitchell PM Shines equal parts 9V + 9A + Clear, followed by an Awapuhi Keratriplex Treatment to repair the hair and seal the cuticle.”