Creating Contrast: Use This Backcombing Technique For Brighter Blends

Use These Teasing Tips For A Dimensional Balayage 

What’s the secret to a high-contrast, dimensional blondes? For TRUSS Professional Brand Ambassador Gabriel Samra (@gabrielsamra), it’s a combination of zigzag partings and a gradual backcombing technique that creates a contoured, blended result. We had Gabriel stop by The BTC House to teach his balayage technique, so scroll to learn more!

Products Used

Hair Color

Blanc Blond Lightening Powder

TRUSS Professional

Hair Color

8X Powder

TRUSS Professional

Hair Color

TRUSS Color

TRUSS Professional

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A Percentage System Will Create Natural Dimension

For his technique, Gabriel utilizes a gradual percentage teasing system. Below, Gabriel explains how and where he backcombs:

• 25 Percent: Begin teasing the section one quarter of the way down. Gabriel suggests using this percentage for the back, side and front hairline.

• 50 Percent: As Gabriel moves into the interior of the hair, he will begin teasing halfway down to build interior dimension. 

• 75 Percent: Beginning three quarters of the way down a section, Gabriel will save this percentage for clients that have a lot of hair or want A LOT of contrast.

Keep Sections Even And Clean 

Now that you know where to tease, let’s breakdown HOW to tease.

• First things first: Remember is to keep your sections CLEAN! “If the client sees a big mess while you’re working, they can get nervous,” Gabriel advises. “So keep your partings and sections as clean as possible.”

• Comb through the section to smooth it out, then place the section between your first and middle finger. “If you use your thumb to hold the section, it creates a lot of pressure on the section,” Gabriel explains. “This can result in a lot of knots and uneven teasing, so keep the tension light and the section flat.”

• Hold the comb steady and back comb the section evenly twice.

Pro Tip: When painting, bring the lightener up all the way to the teased sections. “This area won’t get a lot of lift,” explains Gabriel, “but it will create a beautiful transition area.” Bonus: it also makes retouches a breeze, just mimic the clients zigzag partings.

Separate Shorter Strands To Avoid Dark Sections 

For the sections that have shorter strands (or if a client has layers), Gabriel will separate the lengths and tease them separately, then bring them back together. WHY? “Teasing the section together will result in an uneven lift,” Gabriel explains, “the shorter strands will either fall out of the section or become fully teased—resulting in a dark strand right next to the client’s eyes.”