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Last updated: April 29, 2022

4 Tips for Every Kind of Bob

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If anyone is known for a killer bob it’s a Vidal Sassoon-trained artist. Sassoon Academy International Creative Director Mark Hayes (@markhsassoon) and Sassoon Regional Creative Director Traci Saskosits (@tracisak_hair) know a thing or two about the mastery and precision it takes to create the perfect bob. So we asked them, “What are the different types of bobs, and what are your tips for making them come to life?” Scroll through to peek inside their creative process. 



1. The Graduated Bob

A graduated bob is cut by accentuating the natural volume inherent in the hair. To be successful, a graduated bob needs to be cut to the hairline in the back with the graduation sitting just below the occipital and gradually diminishing to a one-length point through the front.


Instagram via @sassoonacademyofficial


Who is it for?

Anyone who wants a little bit of drama in their silhouette! The graduated bob works amazing for fine hair. The building of weight helps create volume and body to support the shape. It is also a great compliment to a round or oval face shape, but steer clear if you have an oblong face shape.



2. The One-Length Bob 

A one-length geometric bob is cut without tension, elevation or overdirection and will work from a center or side parting with or without a fringe. A natural body position is important for achieving balance of the line. “The head should not be tilted too far forward, and the legs and arms should not be crossed. This can deceive your perception of the line of balance when you go to cut and when the body returns to its natural position, the line will often be off,” explains Traci.


Instagram via @tracisak_hair


Who is it for?

While a one-length bob can give the appearance of thicker hair on finer density clients, it is perfect for medium to thick hair types. It works great for clients with oblong face shapes to create width and volume around the cheeks and make the face look more symmetrical. 


3. The Layered Bob 

A layered bob is a less formal way of wearing an iconic bob shape. In general, the line is best kept slightly more square with graduated layers working from the back to the front, for a soft result that frames the face.


Instagram via @markhsassoon


Who is it for?

The layered bob is a timeless cut that can be worn with all types of hair and face shapes because of its versatility. The adaptable shape complements everyone and grows beautifully.


4. Texture Tips

In general, texturizing should only be performed on dry hair, and only after the technical shape has been established. Layered bobs are best suited for dense hair types, as the technique releases the weight and density in the ends of the hair, providing a looser, more unstructured feeling to the shape. Create a modern looking finish on these cuts by smoothing a styling product through damp hair and tucking it around the ears, or gently pushing in loose finger waves and allowing the hair to dry naturally or with gradual diffusion. 


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