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Last updated: May 18, 2021

3 Foiling Tips For Blonder Balayage

Philip Foresto @philipforesto Foil Tips Toning Formulas Brighter Balayage Brunette Balayage Toner Toning Formula Redken Shades EQ
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Foiling Tips & Instagram Video How-Tos From @philipforesto

Let’s talk about foils and balayage because even though sweet summertime has come and gone, the balayage requests won’t be slowing down anytime soon. BTC Team Member Philip Foresto (@philipforesto) is a master at painting dimensional balayage so below, we’re sharing his best foil tips and techniques for creating blonder balayage blends. Keep scrolling to learn foil placement tips, when to process in foils vs. open air and when to use a board, a brush or your hands PLUS watch some of Philip’s top video how-tos!


Click Here To Purchase Philip’s Dimensional Balayage Technique & Receive Unlimited Access To The Course!


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1. Foil Placement 101

Philip opts for foils when he wants a more precise lift because it’s easier to control higher levels of lift with incubation. So when it comes to foil placement, here are his top tips:

  • Focus on perfecting the face-frame.
  • Interval size and placement is just as important as the highlight.
  • Symmetry and balance create a more expensive look.
  • Sometimes less is more. (Don’t always need to use 1,000 foils.)


2. Processing In Foils Vs. Open Air

How do you know when to process in foils and when to process in open air? What helps Philip decide is this simple rule of thumb:

  • When lifting Levels 5 and lower, foils will help produce more lift, which is ideal if guests don’t want to see warmth.


  • For Levels 6 to 10, open air will most likely provide a beautiful natural lift with little to no warmth.


Note: Philip’s go-to lightener formula? TRUSS Professional Air Libre Bleaching Powder (which he’ll mix with 10-, 15-, 25-, or 35-volume developer) and TRUSS Professional 8X Powder!


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3. Applying Lightener With A Balayage Board Vs. A Brush Vs. Your Hands

If you’re an avid watcher of Philip’s videos, then you’ve probably noticed that he switches up his application methods often, alternating between a balayage board, a brush or his hands. Why? Because he loves the creativity of it. “I see every client and every head of hair as an opportunity to bring new ideas to life…Experimentation is a key to growth,” he shares. Here’s when he’ll use each one:



  • A brush: Best for detailed applications. Use smaller brushes for hairline detailing and for harder to reach areas and use larger brushes on larger sections for maximum coverage. Also, know that soft bristles create softer blends while firmer bristles are better for penetration and saturation.


  • Your hands: Philip considers these his best tool because they’re great for achieving maximum coverage and for applying a lot of product quickly and efficiently. 


Watch Philip’s Brush Application Below!

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Watch Philip’s Hand Application Below!

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BONUS: Don’t Forget About The Comb Out

The best way to show off bright balayage blends? With a super satisfying comb out video! Here are Philip’s tips to ensure you nail it every time:

  • Just like everything else, PRACTICE! 


  • Study people you admire on Instagram who are posting the satisfying comb out videos and see what’s working for them. “The blueprints are out there. Study them,” notes Philip. “Once you get the hang of it, you can start to create your own personal customization. That’s when the fun comes in.”


  • Find the light. It is everything because hair is reflective. “Lighting can make or break your Instagram aesthetic,” shares Philip. “Natural window light is my personal favorite. And my favorite video editing app is Splice—it’s very user-friendly.”


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CLICK HERE To Learn How Philip Painted Dimensional Blonde Ribbons On A Neutral Brunette Base

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