10 Color Scenarios with Beth Minardi: Techniques and Formulas

Beth Minardi recently stopped by the ‘Windy City’ to teach a hands-on class on all things color. At the gorgeous BTC Academy, Beth shared tips, tricks, and these 10 sticky color situations—and how to solve them!

1. The client’s medium or light brown hair has faded to an orange, brassy brown.

Solution: Eliminate or diminish this unwanted warmth without over-deepening the brown hair lengths.

Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Liquid

1 ½ oz. 8GN “Ginger Ale” + ½ oz. 6B “Bambi” + 2 oz. 5-volume developer
Apply this formula to the faded hair shaft and process at room temperature for 15 minutes.

2. The client’s deep or medium brown has has been over-bleached to almost white in an attempt to highlight the hair. So, the brown hair appears stripped with unattractive white stripes.

Solution: Deepen the highlights to a rich butterscotch/amber with a glaze.

Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Liquid
1 oz. 7BG “Sunflower” + ½ oz. 8WG “Seashell” + ½ oz. 10C “Peach Chiffon” + 2 oz. 5-volume developer

Apply the formula, thoroughly saturating the entire head, roots to ends. Cover with a plastic cap and process under heat for 15 minutes.

3. Your client’s hair is a dull, flat-looking medium or light brown.

Solution: “Rev it up” with warm auburn brown lowlights.

Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Crème
1 ½ oz. 6GBB “Maple” + ½ oz. 5CB “Rum Raisin” + 2 oz. 5-volume developer

After wrapping the last foil, process for 30 minutes at room temperature.

4. The client’s hair is 50% white and 50% medium brown. The client wants to be slightly lighter with gray coverage and no red.

Solution: Create a cooler, completely natural looking “true brunette” that will cover gray completely.

Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème
1 ½ oz. 5BB “True Brunette” + ½ oz. 5ICE “Blue Moon” + 2 oz. 20-volume developer

Apply to the root area. Process the hair at room temperature for 30-45 minutes.

5. The client has natural deep blonde, ashy hair with little or no gray. She has blue or gray eyes and wants a rich, light blonde that never looks “brassy”.

Solution: Lighten the hair to a level 9 neutral blonde with soft, natural undertones and terrific shine with a global application.

Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème
1 oz. 12BB “Antarctica” + 1 oz. 12ICE “Ice Age” + 2 oz. 40-volume developer

Highlight the hair, taking 1/8-inch sections. After wrapping the last foil, process at room temperature for 45-60 minutes.

6. The client is a brunette with up to 60% white hair who wants strong, European  “Rouge Red”.

Solution: Use a bold Permanent Crème formula to produce a high-fashion result that won’t fade.

Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème
1 oz. 6CCR “I’m On Fire” + 1 oz. 4BC “Nutmeg” + 2 oz. 20-volume developer

Apply as a retouch at the root only. Process at room temperature for 45 minutes. Address hair shaft and lengths appropriately.

7. The client is natural shades level 4 or 5 with up to 50% white hair and wants beach-ready locks.

Solution: Create a rich, caramel tone that would make Sofia Vergara Jealous.

Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème
1 oz. 5NCG “Irish Setter” + ½ oz. 6BB “Beachwood” + ½ oz. 6G “Golden Sable” + 2 oz. 20-volume developer

Process at room temperature for 30-45 minutes.

8. The client’s brunette hair is beginning to gray and she would like to transition to something lighter, but very natural looking.

Solution: Use a Demi Crème to create a “blonde blend” that will look like it came from nature.

Beth Minardi Signature Beth Demi-Permanent Crème
1 oz. 8BB “Bamboo” + 1 oz. 6BG “Cinnamon Toast” + 2 oz. 5-volume developer

Apply to root area and process under heat for 30 minutes.

9. Your client’s blonde is too “flat” and almost white.

Solution: Create a more modern, warm blonde ton using an Acidic Demi Liquid that will improve the hair’s condition, shine like a diamond and deliver a rich color result.

Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Liquid
1 oz. Clear “Invisible” + ½ oz. 10G “Buttercream” + ½ oz. 10C “Peach Chiffon” + 2 oz. 5-volume developer

Apply formula to the root area of the hair. Working carefully, apply evenly and thoroughly to the entire hair shaft. Process 5-7 minutes. Then, shampoo and condition.

TIP: This is also a wonderful “buttery” toner for hair that has been highlighted with lightener.

10. Your client is a redhead. She wants a rich, copper auburn that covers gray perfectly.

Solution: Create a believable, gorgeous shade that’s never “pink” or too “hot” using Permanent Crème color.

Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème
1 oz. 5NCG “Irish Setter” + 1 oz. 7NGC “Golden Russet” + 2 oz. 20-volume developer

Process for 45 minutes at room temperature.