HOW-TO STEPS

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  1

  Roos’ long lengths lack volume and she also wants a natural-looking, yet more interesting color.

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  2

  Increase layers comprise the interior and the right exterior. Graduated lengths are sculpted throughout the left side and back exterior.

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  3

  Section the top with a sectioning line that starts at the upper recession corner on the left side and ends slightly below the recession area on the right side.

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  4

  Isolate lengths along the left hairline and the nape with a zigzag parting. Subdivide the back with a vertical parting in the center.

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  5

  Begin behind the isolated section at the front left hairline. Take a steep diagonal-back parting, distribute perpendicular, project the hair at 90° and position your fingers parallel for a subtle length increase toward the top of the parting. Continue with the same techniques as you work to the center back.

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  6

  As you move to the bottom of the parting, change the finger position to nonparallel for a greater length increase toward the front right side, creating increase layers. Repeat these techniques as you complete the right exterior section.

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  7

  Section the top with a side part over the middle of the right eyebrow. Then section horizontally across the apex to separate the front from the back, resulting in four subsections.

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  8

  With the head upright, distribute perpendicular, project at 90° down the curve of the head and slide cut from the midstrand to the ends. Release the next pivotal parting, project at 90° and slide cut with a mobile design line. Repeat throughout this subsection. Then, move to the right crown section and repeat these techniques.

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  9

  Move to the heavier, front section on the left side. Take a length guide and use it as a stationary design line. Release a vertical parting, distribute perpendicular and converge the lengths back to the stationary design line. Project at 90° and slide cut.

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  10

  Distribute the hair in the fringe. On the left side, use medium projection and slide cut. Lower the projection as you sculpt toward the ends.

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  11

  Release the zigzag parting in the nape and air form the hair. With the head upright, distribute naturally, use low projection and a length guide from the lengths on the right side. Slide cut along a diagonal-left line for a length increase toward the left. Then, slide cut around the front left side.

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  12

  Apply level-5, neutral brown demi-permanent color with developer to the base up to the midstrand throughout the entire head. Next, apply a level-6, dark blond demi-permanent color with developer to the midstrand and ends. Leave the ends on the longer lengths uncolored. Finally, apply lightener with 10 volume (3%) developer to the remaining ends.  Process, rinse, shampoo and condition prior to styling.

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  13

  The subtle color progression from darker at the base to lighter on the ends enhances the movement created by the sculpted texture throughout the design.

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  14

  The subtle color progression from darker at the base to lighter on the ends enhances the movement created by the sculpted texture throughout the design.