How-Tos > Styling > Master Your Diffusing Skills
Last updated: March 26, 2018

Master Your Diffusing Skills

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Natural texture is one of the year’s biggest trends, so why not help your curly-haired clients embrace (and enhance!) their tresses? To get those gorgeous, sought-after curls, it’s all about how you diffuse the hair. We have a how-to AND all the tips you need for diffusing hair and creating va-va-voom texture! Wella Professionals recently hosted a four-day cutting methodology class with Global Education Academy Dean Stephen Moody and Signature Studio Artist Oliver Shortall in the Wella Studio Atelier Chicago at Fuga Centro Salon & Spa in Chicago. Aside from four days of topnotch cutting education, Oliver led a course on diffusing—and here are all of his best tips for applying product and an exclusive how-to!

Artist: Dean Stephen Moody; Oliver Shortall


  • 1

    Before You Diffuse, It’s All About The Cut
    1. Tension controls the finish of the hair. With curly hair, taking your sections with a lot of tension will leave the shape with a softer finish. 

    2. Keep the hair you’re cutting in a similar state—dampness.

    3. If you make a mistake, fix it exactly where you made it right away. Do not continue cutting if you have not identified the problem.

  • 2

    Product Application Tips
     Make sure the hair is evenly damp before you apply the product.

    2. More is MORE—always use more products than less.

    3. Apply the product with both the front and back of your hands, using your hands as a rake.

    4. Make sure to layer your products in this order: leave-in or primer, mousse, thickening spray and thermal spray.

    5. Slow down—moving slower through the diffusing process will help you achieve gorgeous curls.

    6. To prevent frizz, don’t paw the hair!

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    Apply product of choice. Begin twisting the hair at the midshaft in small vertical sections away from the face. 

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    Diffuse the hair at a high heat setting on your blow dryer, but with low speed.

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    When the hair is 80% dry, have your client move forward on the chair and lean back, so their neck is right at the back of the chair.

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    When you start to notice frizz and separation happening, layer the hair with a thermal protectant spray. Sprays are a go-to diffusing product because they won’t disrupt the curls.

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    After the back is dry, have your client sit forward with her elbows on her knees, slouching forward. This will help you get the crown and roots for added volume.

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