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How-Tos > Mahogany Bi-Level Cut and Color How-To from Pivot Point
February 1, 2012

Mahogany Bi-Level Cut and Color How-To from Pivot Point

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Mahogany Bi-Level Cut and Color How-To from Pivot Point

Bi-level cuts are perfect for your clients who seek cuts with versatility. In this step-by-step from Pivot Point International, you’ll learn how to create this cut and color and see two ways to style it: as a piece-y, romantic look or sleek with edge factor.


 

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Naomi, pictured, wants to keep the length on the sides but add interest on the top with shorter lengths and brighten her overall color.

  • 2

    Increase layers are sculpted over graduated lengths in the back. Graduated lengths in the interior fall on top of longer increase layers on the side perimeters.

  • 3

    Increase layers are sculpted over graduated lengths in the back. Graduated lengths in the interior fall on top of longer increase layers on the side perimeters.

  • 4

    Take a diagonal-forward parting on either side of a center part in the nape. Use perpendicular distribution, low projection and a parallel finger position. Razor etch from the center toward the left side. Repeat on the right side using a length guide from the center.

  • 5

    When texture is added, the outcome is a piece-y, romantic look with swing.

    Credits
    Artist: Vic Piccolotto, Pivot Point International
    Make-Up: Sharon Casey
    Fashion Stylists: Patric Chauvez, Sam Sok
    Fashion Photography: Lisa Sciascia
    Senior Photographer/Videographer: David Placek

  • 6

    Yet when flat-ironed, the outcome is sleek and edgy, placing emphasis on the upper level of the bi-level cut.

    Want more step-by-steps? Check out the Sculpted Bob Cut and Color How-To from Pivot Point!

    Credits
    Artist: Vic Piccolotto, Pivot Point International
    Make-Up: Sharon Casey
    Fashion Stylists: Patric Chauvez, Sam Sok
    Fashion Photography: Lisa Sciascia
    Senior Photographer/Videographer: David Placek

  • 7

    Take a pivotal parting on the left side of the crown section. Project at 90 degrees, use a parallel finger position and razor peel to sculpt a uniform stationary design line. Work to the center back directing pivotal partings to the stationary design line. Repeat on the other side.

  • 8

    Release a parting parallel to the bottom sectioning line in the upper left side. Use perpendicular distribution, medium projection and a parallel finger position to razor etch a stationary design line.

  • 9

    Take diagonal-forward partings on the right side in the top section. Use perpendicular distribution, a parallel finger position and razor etch directing lengths to a stationary design line.

  • 10

    Air form the hair. In the unsculpted lengths behind each ear, use vertical partings, high projection and a length guide from the interior. Slide cut while retaining length. Project slightly higher at the ear.

  • 11

    Direct interior lengths straight up and use a deep notching technique to blend the sides, crown and top lengths. Shift the right side back to retain length.

  • 12

    Use back-to-back, diagonal slices in a triangular fringe section. Alternate level 6, warm brown, level 6, copper and level 5, red permanent colors with 20 volume (6%) developer.

  • 13

    Apply demi-permanent level 4, red-violet in the exterior and demi-permanent level 5, chestnut brown in the interior. Process, rinse, shampoo and condition prior to styling.