How-Tos > Hair Color > Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic
Last updated: August 19, 2009

Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic

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Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic

You will be making beautiful music once you learn the Jazz cut and color how-to from Addam Moreno, Art Director of the i.Design Team—along with team members Eric Mayes and Darby Shields—from the ISO.Chromatic Collection.  Jazz pushes the envelope by taking a classic bobbed shape and incorporating  variable asymmetry.  The choice of color placement and tone allows you to create a mood much like a jazz singer; unexpected, seductive and bold.

 

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HOW-TO STEPS

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    1 Begin by sectioning the top from the natural part back beneath the crown. Curve around to a point below the parietal ridge at the front hairline on the opposite side.
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    2 Begin sections on the lighter side. Take ½-inch (1,27 cm) diagonal back sections that mimic the natural hairline at the face. Direct hair from the head at 90 degrees and cut to determine desired length.
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    3 Continue working toward the back using a traveling guide.
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    4 Work to incorporate the hair at the nape and stop either at the center or a point before the center if you wish to maintain maximum length.
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    5 Cross-check horizontally for balance.
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    6 At this point, everything from the opposite side will be overdirected to a now stationary guide to maintain length.
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    7 Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach.
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    8 Release the top. Sectioning begins at the crown, and is directed back to reveal guides from both sides that were previously cut. Slide cut to blend length.
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    9 Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach.
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    10 Refine the perimeter shape.
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    11

    Model has natural level 5 dark blonde hair.

    Pre lightening Formula:
    ActiveLift with 10 vol (3%)

    Focus Formula 1:
    2oz (60ml) 100N (100.0) + 2 inches (5.08cm)
    INR + ½-inch (1.27cm) INV with 4oz (120ml)
    10 vol (3%)

    Focus Formula 2:
    2oz (60ml) 100N (100,0) + 1oz (30 ml) INCG with
    4oz (120ml) 10 vol (3%)

    Base Formula :
    2oz (60ml) 6CR (6,45) + 1oz INCG with 10 vol (3%)

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    12 Section out disconnected area from shorter lengths.
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    13 Beginning 1-inch from hairline, stagger two back-to-back slice partings from part to ear and apply Pre lightening Formula.
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    14 Move toward the crown and overdirect each slice parting to the original guide slice. Apply Pre lightening Formula to the midshaft and ends ONLY, using a balayage technique.
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    15 All Pre lightened foils will be overdirected to the original guide. Process to desired lightness.
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    16 Beginning in pre lightened fringe, take five back-to-back slice partings and apply: Focus Formula 2, twice; and Focus Formula 1, three times.
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    17 Begin taking chevron partings for ALL remaining slices.
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    18 Continue taking back-to-back chevron partings for a total of eight foils. Alternate Focus Formula 1 and Focus Formula 2. For the last slice parting, apply Base Formula (copper foil). Apply Base Formula to all remaining hair. Process accordingly.
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    19

    Final Look

    See the Collection:  ISO.Chromatic Collection