0
How-Tos > Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic
August 19, 2009

Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic

VIEW ALL PHOTOS VIEW SLIDESHOW
GET THE HOW-TO
close formula

Jazz Cut and Color How-To from ISO.Chromatic

You will be making beautiful music once you learn the Jazz cut and color how-to from Addam Moreno, Art Director of the i.Design Team—along with team members Eric Mayes and Darby Shields—from the ISO.Chromatic Collection.  Jazz pushes the envelope by taking a classic bobbed shape and incorporating  variable asymmetry.  The choice of color placement and tone allows you to create a mood much like a jazz singer; unexpected, seductive and bold.



 


Subscribe to behindthechair.com “On Paper” Magazine–4 Issues Only $29.95! 
Next Issue: COLOR with Beth Minardi!

HOW-TO STEPS

  • close formula
    1

    Begin by sectioning the top from the natural part back beneath the crown. Curve around to a point below the parietal ridge at the front hairline on the opposite side.

  • close formula
    2

    Begin sections on the lighter side. Take ½-inch (1,27 cm) diagonal back sections that mimic the natural hairline at the face. Direct hair from the head at 90 degrees and cut to determine desired length.

  • close formula
    3

    Continue working toward the back using a traveling guide.

  • close formula
    4

    Work to incorporate the hair at the nape and stop either at the center or a point before the center if you wish to maintain maximum length.

  • close formula
    5

    Cross-check horizontally for balance.

  • close formula
    6

    At this point, everything from the opposite side will be overdirected to a now stationary guide to maintain length.

  • close formula
    7

    Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach.

  • close formula
    8

    Release the top. Sectioning begins at the crown, and is directed back to reveal guides from both sides that were previously cut. Slide cut to blend length.

  • close formula
    9

    Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach.

  • close formula
    10

    Refine the perimeter shape.

  • close formula
    11

    Model has natural level 5 dark blonde hair.

    Pre lightening Formula:
    ActiveLift with 10 vol (3%)

    Focus Formula 1:
    2oz (60ml) 100N (100.0) + 2 inches (5.08cm)
    INR + ½-inch (1.27cm) INV with 4oz (120ml)
    10 vol (3%)

    Focus Formula 2:
    2oz (60ml) 100N (100,0) + 1oz (30 ml) INCG with
    4oz (120ml) 10 vol (3%)

    Base Formula :
    2oz (60ml) 6CR (6,45) + 1oz INCG with 10 vol (3%)

  • close formula
    12

    Section out disconnected area from shorter lengths.

  • close formula
    13

    Beginning 1-inch from hairline, stagger two back-to-back slice partings from part to ear and apply Pre lightening Formula.

  • close formula
    14

    Move toward the crown and overdirect each slice parting to the original guide slice. Apply Pre lightening Formula to the midshaft and ends ONLY, using a balayage technique.

  • close formula
    15

    All Pre lightened foils will be overdirected to the original guide. Process to desired lightness.

  • close formula
    16

    Beginning in pre lightened fringe, take five back-to-back slice partings and apply: Focus Formula 2, twice; and Focus Formula 1, three times.

  • close formula
    17

    Begin taking chevron partings for ALL remaining slices.

  • close formula
    18

    Continue taking back-to-back chevron partings for a total of eight foils. Alternate Focus Formula 1 and Focus Formula 2. For the last slice parting, apply Base Formula (copper foil). Apply Base Formula to all remaining hair. Process accordingly.

  • close formula
    19

    Final Look

    See the Collection:  ISO.Chromatic Collection