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How-Tos > Smoke Rising
July 17, 2017

Smoke Rising

  • Formula A (lightener)

    lightener of choice + Olaplex No.1 

  • Formula B (toner)

    Redken Shades EQ 09V

  • Formula C (roots)

    Redken Shades EQ 06T

  • Formula D

    Redken Shades EQ 09B + Redken Shades EQ 000

Have you ever had a client who you know was just BORN to rock a certain cut or color? That’s exactly what we thought when we saw this INSANE transformation by the Living Proof artistic team. We caught up with the team backstage before their NAHA presentation in Las Vegas, where Artistic Team Members Russel Bally and Thom Costello were giving their model this cool, textured cut and smoky-toned color—with a deep shadow root rising to a soft grayish/white toward the ends. Here’s their formula and how-to!

Artist: Russel Bally; Thom Costello
Colorist: Russel Bally

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A (lightener)

    lightener of choice + Olaplex No.1 

  • Formula B (toner)

    Redken Shades EQ 09V

  • Formula C (roots)

    Redken Shades EQ 06T

  • Formula D

    Redken Shades EQ 09B + Redken Shades EQ 000

Products Used

VIDEO

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Prelighten with Formula A, processing until a Level 10, pale yellow is achieved.

  • 2

    Tone with Formula B to neutralize the yellow, processing for about 10 minutes.

  • 3

    Apply Formula C to the roots, softly blending out a few inches.

  • 4

    Tone just the midlengths and ends using Formula D, allowing the roots and ends to softly blend into each other, creating a soft color melt.

  • 5

    Next, Thom (Living Proof’s team leader for geometric haircuts) used a plier razor to create light, texturized movement in his model’s hair. Watch his technique above.   

    • Formula A (lightener)

      lightener of choice + Olaplex No.1 

    • Formula B (toner)

      Redken Shades EQ 09V

    • Formula C (roots)

      Redken Shades EQ 06T

    • Formula D

      Redken Shades EQ 09B + Redken Shades EQ 000

    6
    To style, Russel and Thom used Living Proof T.B.D. Multi-Tasking Styler, which creates a tamed softness with a slightly deconstructed finish. They finished with Living Proof Style Lab Molding Clay. 
    • Formula A (lightener)

      lightener of choice + Olaplex No.1 

    • Formula B (toner)

      Redken Shades EQ 09V

    • Formula C (roots)

      Redken Shades EQ 06T

    • Formula D

      Redken Shades EQ 09B + Redken Shades EQ 000

    7

    Before & After

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