Before

Working off the center parting, take a horizontal slice parting and apply Formula A approximately 2 ½ inches from the scalp to the ends. Turn the brush vertically and feather the formula upward toward the scalp to avoid a harsh line of demarcation.

“I love a softer pastel moving into a stronger pastel, so I use a feathering technique to blend the colors and ensure I don’t end up with a solid line where one color stops and another begins,” Sue said.

Take a second slice parting and apply Formula A in the same manner. Then, take a third back-to-back slice parting and apply Formula A about 2 ½ inches from the scalp and about 3 inches down the parting, feathering the formula toward the scalp as before. Lastly, apply Formula B to the remainder.

“This technique can be done freehand or with longer foils," Sue says. "I prefer to foil because I like to see how the hair will fall, plus I also don’t want clients to realize how easy this technique is and attempt to do it themselves at home.”

Repeat the process for two additional back-to-back slice partings. Then continue with the horizontal partings by applying Formula B feathered 2 inches from the scalp and Formula C from the midshafts to the ends.

“I personally like to work from the top area down to the bottom (perimeter), because it helps me visualize how the hair will fall and where the different colors will transition into each other," Sue says.

Start to pivot around the head.

• Take one additional diagonal slice parting with Formula B feathered 2 inches from the scalp and Formula C applied from the midshafts to the ends. Note that when pivoting through the side section, the hairline should be in the foil.
• Take two diagonal slice partings and apply Formula C 2 inches from the scalp to the ends, feathering the formula toward the scalp as before.
• Take three additional diagonal back-to-back partings with Formula D.

Proceed to the opposite side and repeat the process.

Start the back section. Working horizontally, take slice partings in the following order:

• Two single partings with Formula A
• Two staggered partings with Formula A feathered at the scalp and Formula B on the ends
• Four staggered partings with Formula B feathered through the midshafts and ends
• Two partings with Formula B feathered at the scalp and Formula C on the ends
• Two staggered partings with Formula C through the midshafts and ends

Foil the remaining hair with Formula D—about three to four foils.

When foiling is complete, crosscheck all foils for even application and saturation. Process for 20 minutes, rinse, shampoo with Joico K-PAK, and rinse. Apply Joico K-PAK Cuticle Sealer and leave in for five minutes. Rinse, then apply Joico K-PAK Intense Hydrator for five minutes, and rinse again. Finally, dry and style hair.

“For this particular technique, I crosscheck starting at the bottom and work my way up toward the top of the head to ensure the colors don’t touch and bleed into each other,” Sue says.

Alternative technique for step 7.

Finished Look