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How-Tos > How-To: Blonde Rescue
February 16, 2016

How-To: Blonde Rescue

  • Starting Level:

    Natural hair Level 4 medium brown, badly lightened with bleach to a very orange Level 6

  • Formula A:

    Lightener + 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    30g 7.11 + 3g pure blue + 33g 30-volume developer, all non-ammonia color

  • Formula C:

    Blue-based lightener + 40-volume developer 

Your client wants beautiful, vanilla blonde hair, styled to perfection for her big night out… sure, but right now, she’s looking a bit more pumpkin carriage than Cinderella. It’s up to you to give her what she wants, but first, a little bit of hair rescue is in order. With Pai-Shau’s innovative line of restorative hair care products, you can color and style her hair while simultaneously bringing the hair back to a virgin-like quality.

 

Made with a special Signature Exotic Tea Complex, Pai-Shau is both weightless and deeply nourishing. And now, with its newly released Design Ritual Line, not only can you hydrate, but you can style with impeccable hold.

 

Here, Master Colorist and Pai-Shau Brand Ambassador, Rob Pizzuti, from Blyss Salon in Toronto, Canada, takes his client from tragic to magic in no time. Here’s how he did it!

Colorist: Rob Pizzuti
Manufacturer: Pai-Shau

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Starting Level:

    Natural hair Level 4 medium brown, badly lightened with bleach to a very orange Level 6

  • Formula A:

    Lightener + 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    30g 7.11 + 3g pure blue + 33g 30-volume developer, all non-ammonia color

  • Formula C:

    Blue-based lightener + 40-volume developer 

Products Used

HOW-TO STEPS

    • Starting Level:

      Natural hair Level 4 medium brown, badly lightened with bleach to a very orange Level 6

    • Formula A:

      Lightener + 30-volume developer

    • Formula B:

      30g 7.11 + 3g pure blue + 33g 30-volume developer, all non-ammonia color

    • Formula C:

      Blue-based lightener + 40-volume developer 

    1

    Apply a liberal amount of well-shaken Enhance Ritual Biphasic Infusion to the driest areas of the hair, focusing on midlengths to ends. Avoid the root area since this virgin growth does not require additional protection.

  • 2

    To eliminate this brassy tone and to achieve a Level 9-10 cool blonde result, the hair will require two separate lightening steps. First, apply Formula A. Work in three-inch sections and use a wide tooth comb to backcomb about 10 percent of the hair out of the section. This maintains a softer-looking result and speeds up the application. Begin at the back and work to the top of the head, then around the sides to the front. Gradually lighten less of the hair as you work forward—shifting to 2 ½-inch partings. This entire application takes about 30 minutes.

  • 3

    Place the client under a warm steamer for about 20 or 25 minutes, until the hair lifts to a Level 8 or 8 ½ pale gold.

    • Starting Level:

      Natural hair Level 4 medium brown, badly lightened with bleach to a very orange Level 6

    • Formula A:

      Lightener + 30-volume developer

    • Formula B:

      30g 7.11 + 3g pure blue + 33g 30-volume developer, all non-ammonia color

    • Formula C:

      Blue-based lightener + 40-volume developer 

    4

    Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, towel dry and treat the hair with Enhance Ritual Biphasic Infusion for intense hydration. “The hair is instantly soothed and left in a perfect state to safely continue the correction to the final steps all in one day,” says Rob. “I use Biphasic on every one of my clients. It’s multi-use, weightless, and always exceeds my expectations.”

  • 5

    Apply Formula B—a Level 7 double ash with a touch of blue–to the root area. Then add additional developer to thin out the formula and extend the color in vertical sections for a grown-out shadow root effect.

  • 6

    As the Formula B processes, apply Formula C in a freehand manner to bottom layers, select tips and front sections for a bright, balayage effect. Work quickly to avoid over-processing the previous color. After 15 minutes total time from the start of the application of Formula C, rinse the root area, followed by the back and then the front where the last of Formula C was applied. 

  • 7

    Shampoo the hair with Hydrating Ritual Replenishing Hair Cleanser, then apply Hydrating Ritual Supreme Revitalizing Mask from roots to midshafts and a violet-tinted conditioner to the ends.

  • 8

    Use a round brush and style, finishing the look with Design Ritual Sublime Hold Hairspray to build texture while keeping the hair flexible.

  • Since it’s release, Pai-Shau has been making HUGE waves on the red carpet. Stars and celeb stylists alike are in love with the way it nourishes and protects while providing a buildup-free, all-night hold. And you know what that means—if it’s perfect for the red carpet, it’s perfect for her big night out. Styled by stylist Italo Gregorio, here’s how you can give your client that sleek, sophisticated Nicole Kidman look using Pai-Shau’s  newly released Design Ritual Line.