How-Tos > Color Correction: Brassy to Ashy
June 21, 2017

Color Correction: Brassy to Ashy

Formula A

PRAVANA ChromaSilk 6N + 20-volume developer + 2 inches of blue additive

Formula B

Oligo Professionnel Cool Toned Blonde Blacklight Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

Formula C

Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

We know you’ve had your fair share of client hair emergencies, but we bet you’ve never had a client fly all the way from London to fix one. Jack Martin (@jackmartincolorist), owner of Jack Martin Salon in Trustin, Calif., found himself in this situation when his client of three years, who was spending a year in London, ended up with a cringe-worthy cut and color.

 

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“She went to a local salon in London and asked for a natural color with no brass at all,” says Jack. “She got a bad cut with orangey hair, so she called me from England and made an appointment for the day she lands in Los Angeles.”

 

So Jack gave his loyal client a chic, naturally ashy A-line bob with some blonde strands in the face-framing area before she jetted off back to London. Check out the how-to for this corrective cut and color below!

 

Processing Time: 3 hours

Pricing: $350

 

Colorist: Jack Martin
Manufacturer: Olaplex; Oligo Professionel; PRAVANA, @pravana; Redken, @redken

COLOR FORMULAS

Formula A

PRAVANA ChromaSilk 6N + 20-volume developer + 2 inches of blue additive

Formula B

Oligo Professionnel Cool Toned Blonde Blacklight Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

Formula C

Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

Products Used

HOW-TO STEPS

Formula A

PRAVANA ChromaSilk 6N + 20-volume developer + 2 inches of blue additive

Formula B

Oligo Professionnel Cool Toned Blonde Blacklight Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

Formula C

Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

1

Before

2

Cut the perimeter into a short A-line bob, following the jawline. Taper the nape at a low 45 degree angle and gradually blend up the occipital bone toward the crown, leaving more length at the crown.

3

Then, apply Formula A to her whole head to cancel out all the orange and brassy tones. Rinse, blow-dry, then paint a few strands of ash blonde highlights around the face to complement the cut.

4

Apply Formula B and process until she reaches a pale blonde Level 9, then rinse.

5

Tone with Formula C and process for 20 minutes. Then, shampoo and style by blow-drying the back with a small round brush and the front with a larger round brush.

Formula A

PRAVANA ChromaSilk 6N + 20-volume developer + 2 inches of blue additive

Formula B

Oligo Professionnel Cool Toned Blonde Blacklight Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

Formula C

Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

6

The finished look!

Formula A

PRAVANA ChromaSilk 6N + 20-volume developer + 2 inches of blue additive

Formula B

Oligo Professionnel Cool Toned Blonde Blacklight Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

Formula C

Equal parts Redken Shades EQ 9P + Shades EQ Processing Solution

7