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How-Tos > Chrystofer Benson’s NAHA 20 Haircolor Technicals
August 25, 2009

Chrystofer Benson’s NAHA 20 Haircolor Technicals

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Chrystofer Benson’s NAHA 20 Haircolor Technicals

NAHA 20 Haircolor Finalist and Logics Artistic Director Chrystofer Benson was inspired by the colors found on the wings and bodies of beautiful butterflies for his collection.  Benson shares his detailed formulas and application procedures for you to recreate allowing you to spread your wings and soar through a more colorful world!



 


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Keyword: coloraward



 

HOW-TO STEPS

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    1

    The overall concept chosen for this canvas was based on the exact pattern and tone in the butterfly’s wing.  First, the hair was cut and then pre-lightened to a very pale yellow and then toned to the ultimate softness of a sensual blonde color.  The butterfly palette of tones served as the focal point…a stunning spectrum of refined colors that gave perfect detail to the canvas.  The strong haircut was just as progressive — softly shattered internally with a very structured outline.  The result is a pattern of nature reproduced with a radical approach to hair design.

    Natural level:  5 – with highlights

    Color used:
    LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener
    LOGICS Colocremes
    LOGICS Primary Concentrates
    LOGICS Imprints FULL and SHEER 

    Formulas used:
    Pre-Lightening:  LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 30 vol. Color Generator

    Toning Formula:  LOGICS Imprints 10G-S 2 oz. + Clear 1 oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 3 oz.

    Foil Color Formulas in Step Three/Sectioning:
    LOGICS Imprints 4N-S 1 oz. + 4G-S ½ oz. + 4RO-S ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2 oz.
    LOGICS Imprints 6G-S 1 oz. + 4 drops 6RO-F + 5 vol. Color Generator 1 oz.
    LOGICS Imprints 10G-S 1 oz. + 8RO-F ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2oz.

    Step One:
    Pre-Lightening:  Double process — Pre-lighten hair evenly to a very pale yellow
    Pre-Lightening Formula:  LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener +
    30 vol. Color Generator

    The model had a double-process blonde with LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 30 vol. Color Generator which was applied ½-inch off scalp to the mid length but not to the ends.  After the mid length started to lift, lightener was applied to the scalp.  The hair was then processed to pale yellow; lightener was pulled through to the ends of hair for the final lightening process.  The hair was then processed and pre-lightened evenly to a very pale yellow, rinsed, shampooed, towel-dried and was ready for toning. 

    Processed for 55 minutes

    Step Two:
    Toning Formula:  LOGICS Imprints 10G-S 2oz. + Clear 1 oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator
    3 oz.  Apply toner scalp to ends and process. 
     
    Processed for 10 minutes – Rinse, Shampoo, and blow dry.  

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    Step Three:
    Sectioning:  Section 3 crescent-shaped sections at the top crown getting thinner at front hairline, work sections around the curvature of the head, knot, and clip away.

    The color pattern for the foil slices are as follows:

    Start in the crescent shape furthest back in crown, apply color formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 4N-S 1 oz. + 4G-S ½ oz. + 4RO-S ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2 oz.

    Then in the next Crescent shape, apply color formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 6G-S 1 oz. + 4 drops 6RO-F + 5 vol. Color Generator 1 oz.

    Then in the last crescent shape, apply color formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 10G-S 1 oz. + 8RO-F ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2 oz.

    Step Four:
    Diffuse the fringe light to dark with sea sponge and color formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 4N-S 1 oz. + 4G-S ½ oz. + 4RO-S ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2 oz.
    LOGICS Imprints 6G-S 1 oz. + 4 drops 6RO-F + 5 vol. Color Generator 1 oz.

    Step Five:
    Take a sponge and stamp print the signature spot from butterfly wing with formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 4N-S 1 oz. + 4G-S ½ oz. + 4RO-S ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator 2 oz.

    Section from side-temple areas to occipital-nape region and apply formula:
    LOGICS Imprints 4N-S 1 oz. + 4G-S ½ oz. + 4RO-S ½ oz. + 5 vol. Color Generator
    2 oz.

    Processed for 15 minutes – Rinse, shampoo, and blow dry.  

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    The overall concept chosen for this canvas was based on the model’s look and natural base color of the model.  The dramatic color tones and smudges in the wings where perfect to translate into the hair canvas. The use of the colors below created a marbled fusion of colors that are vivid and bold like the butterfly’s wings. The haircut only made the impact more dynamic — on the external structure of the design, with the finessed touches of texture, shape, strength and polish.

    Natural level:  5 – with highlights

    Color used:
    LOGICS Colorcremes
    LOGICS Primary Concentrates
    LOGICS Imprints FULL and SHEER Demi-permanent

    Formulas used:
    Base Color Formula:
    Logics Colorcremes 4RO ¾ oz. + 4G ¼ oz. + 4 drops 1B + 1 oz. 20 vol. Color Generator

    Foil Color Formulas:
    1.  Logics Imprints 4RO-F ¾ oz. + 4G-F ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
    2.  Logics Imprints 6R-F ½ oz. + 4R-F ½ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. Color Generator
    3.  Logics Imprints 8R0-F ½ oz. + Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
    4.  Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + ½ oz.10 vol. Color Generator
    5.  Logics Imprints 10G-S 1 oz. + 8RO-F ¼ oz. + ¾ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator 1-¾ oz.

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    Section 3 Diamond-shape sections on top of the head, knot and clip away.

    Start working in the center back diamond section.  Take ¼-inch thick vertical slices and place foils back-to-back.  Use pattern of colors below to create marbled fusion of colors that are vivid and bold like the butterfly’s wings. 

    There should be a total of 13 slices each of the 3 diamond sections.

    Feather in Logics Imprints 4RO-F ¾ oz. + 4G-F ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator at the base of all foils in this technique. Fuse in dark from scalp to about 1 inch out, then blend to color in foil.

    The color pattern for the foil slices are as follows:

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    Foil Slice #1 Darkest Red Logics Imprints 4RO-F ¾ oz. + 4G-F ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #2 Red Logics Imprints 6R-F ½ oz. + 4R-F ½ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #3 Red copper Logics Imprints 8R0-F ½ oz. + Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #4 Copper Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #5 Copper Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #6 Red copper Logics Imprints 8R0-F ½ oz. + Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #7 Red Logics Imprints 6R-F ½ oz. + 4R-F ½ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #8 Red copper Logics Imprints 8R0-F ½ oz. + Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #9 Copper Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #10 Copper Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #11 Red copper Logics Imprints 8R0-F ½ oz. + Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. 10 vol. Color Generator
     
    Foil Slice #12 Red Logics Imprints 6R-F ½ oz. + 4R-F ½ oz. + Primary Red Concentrate ¼ oz. + 1 oz. Color Generator

    Foil Slice #13 Darkest Red Logics Imprints 4RO-F ¾ oz. + 4G-F ¼ oz. + ½ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator

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    Step Two:
    Next, repeat in front right and then left diamond sections utilizing the same 13 foil pattern as in the 1st Diamond section.

    Step Three:
    Between the right and left diamond section, take 3 back-to-back slices as seen above. Utilize formula Logics Imprints 10G-S 1 oz. + 8RO-F ¼ oz. + ¾ oz. 10 vol. Color Generator 1-¾ oz. for a muted beige tone in the front like the signature piece in the butterfly.

    Step Four:
    Apply base formula Logics Colorcremes 4RO ¾ oz. + 4G ¼ oz. + 4 drops 1B + 1 oz. 20 vol. Color Generator to all hair not in foil.

    Processed for 15 minutes — Rinse, Shampoo, Towel off and blow dry.

    Step Five:
    Apply base formula Logics Colorcremes 4RO ¾ oz. + 4G ¼ oz. + 4 drops 1B + 1 oz. 20 vol. Color Generator to all hair tips around face and fringe to etch color in dark red.

    Processed for 15 minutes — Rinse, Shampoo, and blow dry.  

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    The overall concept chosen for this canvas was based on the model’s beautiful dark eyes, natural base color and her strong bone structure.  First, the hair was evened out and pre-lightened to under tones of pale yellow and very pale yellow.  Next, shades were selected to illuminate the canvas with an iridescent spectrum of light like the butterfly’s wings when light shines on them.  The haircut only underscored the elegant, yet edgy result — a modern geometric shape with signature pieces of texture like the tips of the butterfly’s wings. 

    Natural level:  2 — heavy blonde highlights and bands of red and blonde throughout

    Color used:
    LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener
    LOGICS Colocremes
    LOGICS Primary Concentrates  
    LOGICS Imprints FULL and SHEER 

    Formulas used:
    Pre-Lightening: 
    LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 20 vol. Color Generator
      
    LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 30 vol. Color Generator

    Base Color Formula:  LOGICS Colorcremes 1B 1 oz. + Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + Color Generator 20 vol. 1-½ oz.
      
    Foil Color Formulas in Step Two and Three

    Step One:
    Remove gold/red bands with LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 30 vol. Color Generator and alternated with LOGICS Light Reactions Powder Lightener + 20 vol. Color Generator on light areas.  First, it was applied 1-inch off scalp to the band at the mid length but not to the ends.  After the bands started to lift, lightener was reapplied to the hair.  Do not apply to the scalp.  The hair was then processed and pre-lightened evenly to a very pale yellow, rinsed, and shampooed. 

    Processed for 55 minutes.

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    Step Two:
    Start on the top of the head.  Section a small zigzag eye-shaped section that is slightly off center, knot and clip away. 

    Work from center back on the left side and work towards the face.  Place 13 foils on the right side of the head and 21 foils on left side.  Take ¼-inch thick diagonal slices and follow the eye-shaped section isolated on the top of head as shown below.

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    Foil Slice #1 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

    Foil Slice #2 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #3 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

    Foil Slice #4 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #5 Green Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ½ oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¾ oz.

    Foil Slice #6 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #7 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #8 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #9 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #10 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #11 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

    Foil Slice #12 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #13 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #14 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #15 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #16 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #17 Green Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ½ oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¾ oz.

    Foil  Slice #18 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #19 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

    Foil Slice #20 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #21 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

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    Step Three:
    Start in the center back on the right side of the head and work forward towards the face.  Take ¼-inch thick diagonal slices back-to-back and follow the eye-shaped section isolated on the top of head.  Feather in LOGICS Colorcremes 1B 1 oz. + Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + Color Generator 10 vol. 1-½ oz. at the base of all foils.

    The color pattern for the foil slices are as follows:

    Foil Slice #1 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

    Foil Slice #2 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #3 Green Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ½ oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¾ oz.

    Foil Slice #4 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #5 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #6 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #7 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #8 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #9 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #10 Green Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ½ oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¾ oz.

    Foil Slice #11 Yellow Logics Primary Yellow Concentrate ¼ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator ¼ oz.

    Foil Slice #12 Light Blue Logics Colorcremes Clear 2 oz. + Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + 10 vol. Color Generator 2-½ oz.

    Foil Slice #13 Blue Logics Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. +10 vol. Color Generator ½ oz.

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    Step Four:
    Apply base formula LOGICS Colorcremes 1B 1 oz. + Primary Blue Concentrate ½ oz. + Color Generator 20 vol. 1-½ oz. to all hair not in foil including the isolated section on top of the head.

    Processed for 15 minutes — Rinse, Shampoo, and blow dry.