HOW-TO STEPS

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  1

  Create a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.

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  2

  Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting.

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  3

  Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side.

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  4

  Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face.

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  5

  Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion.

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  6

  In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.

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  7

  For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.

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  8

  Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.

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  9

  To release the weight, create vertical  sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out.

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  To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation.

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  Color Formulas
  Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
  Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
  Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developer

  Create a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.

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  13

  Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.

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  14

  Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.

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  Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch  subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold.

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  Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, “lived-in” effect.

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  17

  In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique.

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  18

  Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.

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  19

  Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.

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  20

  Who did it
  cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
  haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
  photography: Alex Barron-Hough
  styling: Caroline Mascolo
  makeup: Tommy Gomez
  website: toniguy.com.
  
   On Paper Keyword: toniguy

  TONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!
  
  A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!
  
  For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.
  
  Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!
  
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