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How-Tos > Almond Colored Long Layers from TONIandGUY
March 13, 2014

Almond Colored Long Layers from TONIandGUY

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Almond Colored Long Layers from TONIandGUY

Under-color and mahogany blonde highlights enhance this cut, which features almond-shaped, curved, diagonal back sections. It’s from the new TONI&GUY Divert Collection, and it beautifully answers the question, “what can I do to make long brown hair look fresh and new?”

On Paper Keyword: toniguy

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Create a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.

  • 2

    Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting.

  • 3

    Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side.

  • 4

    Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face.

  • 5

    Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion.

  • 6

    In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.

  • 7

    For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.

  • 8

    Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.

  • 9

    To release the weight, create vertical  sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out.

  • 10

    To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation.

  • 11
  • 12

    Color Formulas
    Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown):
    TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
    Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
    Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developer

    Create a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.

  • 13

    Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.

  • 14

    Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.

  • 15

    Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch  subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold.

  • 16

    Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, “lived-in” effect.

  • 17

    In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique.

  • 18

    Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.

  • 19

    Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.

  • 20

    Who did it
    cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
    haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
    photography: Alex Barron-Hough
    styling: Caroline Mascolo
    makeup: Tommy Gomez
    website: toniguy.com.

     On Paper Keyword: toniguy

    TONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!

    A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!

    For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.

    Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!


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