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Formulas > Northern Lights Blend
August 13, 2015

Northern Lights Blend

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  • Formula A:

    ½  oz. Blue

  • Formula B:

    ½  oz. Teal

  • Formula C:

    ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula D:

    1 oz. White + 1/8 oz. Pink

  • Formula E:

    1 oz. White + ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula F:

    ½ oz. White + ½ oz. Blue

  • Formula G:

    ½ oz. Blue + ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula H:

    1 oz. Red + 1/8 oz. blue + 1/8 oz. Purple

Inspired by the colors of a sunset on the beach,  Kim Bush, Master Stylist, Asante Masters Salon @ The Mill, created a custom gem-colored palette that perfectly reflected the blues, greens and dusty pinks of the ocean waves. “My client has a great face shape and is an up-and-coming singer/songwriter in Nashville. She loved the idea of wearing a deep, bold blend,” says Kim. “I love the Kenra Creative Colors, I have been using them a lot and find the vibrancy and longevity to be superb!”

 

“When I first looked at my haircut, I decided that since I had gone shorter through the crown, gradually getting longer toward the front , that I would select the shorter crown to be a veil area of base color,” shares Kim. The client’s base is her natural Level 7. Kim then secured her veil and clipped it away. “The veil makes for a softer transition into the brighter colors.” To create this formula, Kim mixed up a variety of shades to create her custom blend:

 

Love this color formula but aren’t sure where to even begin to charge for something like this? You’re in luck! Kim shared her pricing strategy with BTC so you can create these beautiful blends and still make the money you deserve. “Always remember that a color like this is time-consuming, and neatness and precision is of the essence,” shares Kim. “I like to make sure to give myself plenty of time with the client.”

 

 

Kim’s Tips for Color Success
1. During the consultation, explain to the client that is color is a double process and must be lightened before the bright colors are applied. “This helps the client understand why the charge is more, even though the cut is very short,” says Kim.

 

2. Be sure to discuss home care and the upkeep that fashion shades require in order to stay vibrant. “I let the client know that these colors can fade into some really cool pastel looks, but when they are ready for a refresh, I would probably leave a rooty look and only pre-lift the roots every other time in order to save them money on the next visit.”

 

3. “For a service like this, I usually charge $45 for the prelightening and $120 for the actual color process for fashion shades with this many formulas on short hair,” says Kim. “The haircut would then be $50.”

 

4. Pricing will change per client, but Kim takes into account the time it takes to perform the service, the level of difficult and the amount of color used. 

 

Who Did It

Colorist: Kim Bush

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A:

    ½  oz. Blue

  • Formula B:

    ½  oz. Teal

  • Formula C:

    ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula D:

    1 oz. White + 1/8 oz. Pink

  • Formula E:

    1 oz. White + ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula F:

    ½ oz. White + ½ oz. Blue

  • Formula G:

    ½ oz. Blue + ½ oz. Purple

  • Formula H:

    1 oz. Red + 1/8 oz. blue + 1/8 oz. Purple

FORMULA STEPS

1. Prelighten the long area neatly using a 1/4-inch section with Kenra Lightener + 20-volume developer and no heat.

 

2. After lifting to a Level 9, shampoo and blow-dry the hair before beginning the next process. 

 

3. Work across the head from left to right using foils to isolate each slice. Slices should be thin and can vary depending on head size, hair density and haircut shape. “Pivot if necessary to go with the flow of the hair,” notes Kim. 

 

4. Leave out a 1-inch fringe perimeter, this section will be colored last.

 

5. Starting with the left side alternate the following formulas:

 

– two back-to-back slices of Formula H.

 

– two back-to-back slices of Formula H on the roots and Formula A on the midlengths and end. 

 

– two back-to-back slices of Formula B on the roots and Formula D on the midlengths and ends.

 

– one slice of Formula F.

 

– one slice of Formula G.

 

– two back-to-back slices of Formula D.

 

– one slice of Formula E.

 

– two back-to-back slice of Formula C on the roots and Formula A ton the midlengths and ends.

 

– two back-to-back slices of Formula H on the roots and Formula A on the midlengths and ends.

 

6. On the fringe area, go back to the left side and follow the same pattern, pivoting as needed to follow the flow of the hair.

 

7. Process the color for 20 minutes without heat.

 

8. Rinse in cool water, removing and rinsing one foil at a time, saving the middle foils (horizon area) last because they are the lightest.