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Formulas > Blue Steel
April 24, 2015

Blue Steel

  • Natural Level:

    5, with grown-out roots
    Midlengths and ends: Level 8 from a faded balayage and ombré 
    Base: Level 7

  • Formula A:

    1 oz. FREELIGHTS + 1.5 oz. FREELIGHTS 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    ½ oz. Color Touch 10/16 + 1 oz. Emulsion

  • Formula C:

    1 oz. Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE 10/88 + 5 inches Koleston Perfect 2/0 + 5 inches Koleston Perfect 0/11 + 1.25 oz. Color Touch Emulsion

Look around, it’s not just grannies and Diane Keaton sporting those silky gray and silver strands anymore. Color fans of all ages are trading in their darker hues for shades of gray. But the “granny” look isn’t for every client, so lacing a silvery/gray base with hints of purple, pink, or even blue can create a metallic shade she is sure to love. “My client explained that she was thinking of coloring black over her now faded ombré,” shares Jeanette Herrera of Hugo Salon in Kensington, MD. “I really didn’t want to waste all of our previous lightening so we discussed what colors she was open to. She liked both blue and silver and with gray being so popular, I knew this metallic blue would be right up her ally.” Just as Blue Steel is Derrick Zoolander’s signature smolder on the runway, this blue-steel creation is sure to be one of the most requested colors in your salon this season! Here’s Jeanette’s signature color formula!

Who Did It

Colorist: Jeanette Herrera

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Natural Level:

    5, with grown-out roots
    Midlengths and ends: Level 8 from a faded balayage and ombré 
    Base: Level 7

  • Formula A:

    1 oz. FREELIGHTS + 1.5 oz. FREELIGHTS 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    ½ oz. Color Touch 10/16 + 1 oz. Emulsion

  • Formula C:

    1 oz. Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE 10/88 + 5 inches Koleston Perfect 2/0 + 5 inches Koleston Perfect 0/11 + 1.25 oz. Color Touch Emulsion

FORMULA STEPS

1. Prelighten the ombré to a Level 9 by applying Formula A and processing for about 7 minutes under a heat lamp (watched carefully) and another 13 minutes without heat.

2. Rinse and fill by applying Formula B on wet hair and processing for 20 minutes.

3. Rinse and dry completely. Color with Formula C, process for 15 minutes and rinse. ** Had the client come in with an allover natural Level 5 (starting this look from the beginning), the only difference would be the following additional step:

Formula Aa: 1 oz. FREELIGHTS + 1.5 oz. FREELIGHTS 30-volume developer + .25 oz. Olaplex

1b. Duplicate the ombré application from Step 1 using Formula Aa and process for a total of around 10 to 15 minutes (around 5 minutes under heat and 5-10 minutes without heat) until a Level 8/9 is achieved.