Money Pieces: 4 Foil + Toning Placement Tips

How To Add Dimension To Money Pieces

Not every money piece is the same, so it might be time to rethink how we approach the face-frame—and challenge ourselves with strategic foil and toner placement. Clairol Professional Design Team Artist Toni Garcia-Jackson (@hairbytag) is here to help!

Watch the tutorial video above to see Toni demo techniques for intentional foiling and toning, and keep scrollin’ for takeaway tips.

ENTER TO WIN: Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Plex Lightening System, Toners, Care + Styling Set. Valued at over $110!

#1: Try This Genius Foil Placement!

The secret to building dimension in a money piece is this: Use a variety of stroke techniques and multiple developers (more on this later!). Toni strategically foils with three different methods—traditional highlight, V-shape and diagonal—along with a pocket of depth for extra POP.

Check out the head diagram for Toni’s fast guide to money piece foil placement and see the breakdown below!

• Fine, Hairline Foil: Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Plex Lightener + 10-volume developer
• Pocket Of Depth: Skip a section between.
• V-Shaped Section: Shimmer Lights Plex Lightener + 20-volume developer
• Diagonal Section: Same formula as V-shaped section
• Lightener Choice: Toni works with Shimmer Lights Plex around the money piece because it’s a fragile area, and the lightener prevents up to 97% of breakage. 

Pro Tip: Using a variety of stroke techniques will allow you to strategically place depth differently on each section. Some sections will have depth underneath (diagonal) and others will place depth in the middle (V-shape) to build dimension.

#2: Use 2 Different Developers For Dimension

Toni’s No.1 reason for using both 10-volume and 20-volume developers throughout the money piece is this: It creates a variety of blonde shades. Later, when it’s time to tone, she will already have a dimensional starting canvas that allows for more creativity with the toner placement.

Pro Tip: Use two different colored foils to create a visual map that shows where different developers are on the head.

#3: Foils Slipping? Do This!

When foils slip, especially with finer hairline sections, the struggle is REAL. Here are a couple of tips that will help!

• The section itself may be too wide, which makes it difficult to pull the foil up closer to the scalp. Try more narrow sections.
• Adjust the way you fold. Let’s say the lip is placed at a ¼-inch on the foil, try 2 inches instead. With the wider lip, once you’ve folded the section, it will make it easier to adjust and secure with a comb.

#4: Creative Money Piece Toner Placement

Before toning, Toni finishes Step 2 of the Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Plex process: the Plex Treatment that strengthens the hair post-lightening. Process, then wash with Shimmer Lights Shampoo to kick any unwanted brass.

Pro Tip: Toni towel-dries or blows-dries to remove excess moisture before applying the toner.

Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights has three different toners:

• Smoky Pearl
• Cool Beige
• Platinum Ice

Toner Placement

Since the money piece was foiled horizontally, Toni applies the toner in diagonal-back sections. By using different placement than the lightener, this creates a visual pop that plays with the different shades of blonde from the two different developers. Toni alternates Cool Beige and Platinum Ice in diagonal-backs.

Tap the beaker for the color formulas below!

• Formula A (hairline foil)

  Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Plex Lightener + 10-volume developer

• Formula B (V-shape)

  Shimmer Lights Plex Lightener + 20-volume developer

• Formula C (diagonal)

  Shimmer Lights Plex Lightener + 20-volume developer

• Formula D (toner)

  Shimmer Lights Permanent Cream Toner Cool Beige

• Formula E (toner)

  Shimmer Lights Permanent Cream Toner Platinum Ice