Hollywood Blonde by Justin Anderson
What happens when the king of California blonde, Justin Anderson, goes “On Tour” with BTC? We learn all of his juiciest color secrets, including an exclusive step-by-step for creating the perfect sun-kissed locks for celebs like Kristin Cavallari. It is all in the details, and Justin gave us all of them—including how he highlights, places foils and breaks the base.
This was our first time presenting BTC “On Tour,” so of course we went full out: Bigger than life venue? The Chicago Theatre. Did we get our name on the marquee? You betcha, complete with a sold out. Here is a little secret, too: we had a whole lotta in-person education from some of the greatest names in the industry. If you made it, you know what’s up; and well, if you didn’t, don’t worry! We will be continuing “On Tour” at a city near you!
So are you ready?! Here’s how Justin creates the perfect California blonde!
Formula A (Highlights): Redken Up to 7 Lightener + 20-volume developer switching to 30-volume developer + Olaplex
Formula B (Balayage Highlights): Up to 7 Lightener + 40-volume developer + Olaplex
Formula C (Hairline): Up to 7 Lightener + 40-volume developer
Formula D (Base Break): L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Richesse 9.11 + Clear + 15-volume developer
1. Section the hair into quadrants, starting in the back right section. Just under the parietal ridge, take a small section of hair, backcomb loosely and apply Formula A on the length, avoiding prelightened ends. Move up the head, and backcomb tighter while working with a mid-sized weave pattern. At the crown, finely weave the sections and place the foil at the scalp.
Pro tip: To keep packets tight, fold in half, then fold a 1-inch section at the bottom upward then close sides.
2. At the front and sides, take very small sections that follow the hairline. Place foils tightly against the scalp and finely weave the highlights. Work in an arc with the foils facing down toward the face. Move up to 30-volume with lightener when the 20-volume with lightener runs out.
Pro tip: Follow your client’s hairline when placing foils so there isn’t a shadow when she pulls her hair into a ponytail.
Justin shows how detailed his partings are when foiling the fringe area.
3. Only foil on the sides to the round of the head. Work in sections that rock back and forth, foiling the crown section last.
Inspiration for Justin’s foiling patterns are inspired by the
way the sun hits the hair.
4. Process until blondes are a pale yellow. At the bowl, tap Formula C around the fine hairs at the hairline of the face, blending highlights. Process for five to eight minutes.
Justin lightens the hairline at the shampoo bowl.
5. While the hairline processes, take off bottom foils and work the lightener up and down the hairshaft with your hands. This evens out the color and blurs the color line. Rinse the hair.
Working the lightener through the hair before rinsing
blurs the color line.
6. Using Product by Malibu C Professional treatment for blondes, push and work through the ends. Process for 10 minutes before rinsing.
7. Next, apply Formula D with a brush at the bowl. “Root tap” on the scalp, going about ½-inch from the root. Color the hairline last. Process for six minutes, rinse, shampoo and condition.
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