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Last updated: August 01, 2018

Fashion Colors Without Prelightening…Wait, What?!

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Fashion Colors Without Prelightening…Wait, What?!

Ask us if we believe in love at first sight and we’d tell you we’re still deciding. Ask us if we believe in single process fashion colors without doing any of the prelightening leg work and we’d say, “It’s 2018 and anything is possible!”


Here’s the scoop: Trillion Tones by Rebecca Taylor (@rebeccataylorhair) is the first-ever hybrid color line, and features a technology that could potentially change the game in fashion haircolor. It’s direct dye-based that can be used as permanent or demi-permanent by mixing pigments with an alkaline base and developers. By formulating properly, you can achieve fashion colors that don’t need to be applied on a Level 10 base (they can lift 3-4 levels!) AND that last longer because they are driven into the cortex via oxidation.


Create Fashion Shades Without Prelightening!
Click Here To Watch The Video & Learn How!


Rebecca stopped by the BTC house to demo the cool new line, and we snagged all her best tips—like how to add dimension to fashion colors and how to formulate with Trillion Tones. Scroll down her for the deets!


If a client needs deposit AND lift…

Try This: Work with hybrid fashion color formulas—aka formulas that can lift and deposit at the same time.

Know this:
Trillion Tones includes six different shades (red, yellow, blue, brown, black and clear/white), different developers that lift the natural melanin out of the hair and ammonia (either 0 alkaline or 00 alkaline).


  • 0 alkaline (about a 9 pH) gives a gentle reaction to the cuticle by slightly opening it, and 00 alkaline (about a 12 or 13 pH) gives an aggressive reaction, allowing the pigment to be driven deeper into the hair.


Example: If the client starts at a Level 5, use Trillion Tones to create a custom mixed pigment, then add in 00 alkaline and the 25-volume developer. This will lift the hair and deposit the color at the same time. See an example from Rebecca’s Instagram below!




If you need help mixing and formulating fashion colors…

Try this: Start by custom mixing different pigments together. With Trillion Tones, the color seen in the mixing bowl is the color that will show up on the hair. Create the desired color before adding in alkaline or developer.


Know this: After the color is created in the bowl, then determine the ammonia and developer. The number of levels that need lifting and the underlying pigment in the hair should determine the rest of your formula.



  • Use the 00 alkaline ammonia and 25-volume developer for a more permanent fashion color end result. This formulation will also lift the hair.
  • Use the 0 alkaline ammonia and a lower developer for more of a semi-permanent fashion color end result. This will create a toning-type effect with fashion colors.
  • Use only pigment for a direct dye, fashion color outcome.


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For creating dimension with fashion colors…

Try This: Alternate color placement when working with gradient blends (color melts with multiple shades), and use different tones from the same color family when working with only one desired color end result.


Know This: Dimension is always a good idea when working with fashion colors—it helps the color fade process be subtler and can make the hair appear thicker.



  • When working with multiple colors, change the color placement while moving through the sections. If the roots are blue and the mids are green, apply the green lower down the hair shaft in one section and higher up the shaft in the next.
  • When working with only one fashion color, use different tones of the desired end shade to keep the overall hue from looking too one dimensional. If the end goal is an all-over pink, mix lighter and darker shades of pink to use throughout the head.