4 Tips For Lifting Without Damage

4 Tips For Lifting Without Damage

We’ve all heard this hair urban legend while sitting around the shampoo bowl: A client comes in as a dark brunette and wants to leave an icy blonde with ZERO damage AND keep their length. But what if we said it’s not a myth and that we’ve actually SEEN it done? We spent the day with Schwarzkopf Professional at their trend labs in Culver City, Cali where we watched Global Color Ambassador Lesley Jennison (@lesleyjennison) and National Corporate Trainer Ian Mayer-Marszalek (@ianhairspray) take a client from a Level 4 to a Level 9 in one session without damage. So of course, we snagged Lesley’s best tips for healthy hair during the lifting process and we’re sharing them all! Scroll for everything we learned!

Slide for This Transformation and Click the Beaker for the Formula!

• Formula A (Roots and Mid-Lengths)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME® Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener + 20-volume Schwarzkopf BLONDME® Premium Developer (1:2) 

• Formula B (Ends)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME® Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener + three parts 20-volume Schwarzkopf BLONDME® Premium Developer + one part 30-volume Schwarzkopf BLONDME® Premium Developer 

• Formula C (Root Shadow Toner)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VIBRANCE® 9.5-19 + IGORA VIBRANCE® 9.5-1 + IGORA VIBRANCE® 8-11 (1:1:1) + equal parts 6-volume IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Gel

• Formula D (Midi-Ends Toner)

  IGORA VIBRANCE® 9.5-19 + IGORA VIBRANCE® 9.5-1 (2:1) + equal parts 6-volume IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Gel

Pro Tip: As always, we want to keep it real with you. Achieving this look in one setting in the salon takes time and money. Using professional, quality products are essential, but we always recommend having a serious conversation with your client. A solid consultation ensures they are ready for this kind of commitment, not just in the salon but for at-home care as well.

Products Used

Hair Color

BLONDME® Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+

Schwarzkopf Professional®

Hair Color

BLONDME® Premium Developer

Schwarzkopf Professional®

Demi-Permanent Color

IGORA VIBRANCE®

Schwarzkopf Professional®

Hair Color

IGORA VIBRANCE® ACTIVATOR GEL

Schwarzkopf Professional®

Haircare

NEW BLONDME® Bonding Care System

Schwarzkopf Professional®

Don’t Skip the Strand Test

There’s really no way to emphasize how important a strand test is when lifting, especially with a new client. A little bit of product can go a long way, Lesley explains. Taking a few moments will create a game plan for the rest of the service, including what volume of developer to use and how long the client should process for.

Power Is In the Powder

Blasting dark hair with heat and a high developer is a common misconception, Lesley explains. “It will just cause major damage.” Lesley prefers the “low and slow” method to lifting, with the majority of her formula consisting of 6%/20-volume developer. “The power is in the powder, not the developer,” Lesley explains. Quality, professional powder with a low developer is what will achieve a perfect overall bleach, while keeping the integrity of the client’s hair.

Quality Versus Quantity

It can be very appealing to buy a gallon of 40-volume developer, but Lesley warns the ingredients can be shifty. Lesley recommends using the Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME®  Premium Developer because it contains a high oil content and Bonding Enforcing Technology which helps the hair maintain moisture during processing.

When to Foil

For a perfect root-to-tip all over blonde, Lesley recommends a classic back-to-back foil technique. Especially if the client has a lot of hair and wants to keep their length. “I honestly would only do an open-air process on a client that has a natural 7 base and short bob,” Lesley explains. “Anything longer than that just won’t get an even lift, especially at the ends.”

Click Through the Slideshow to See More From Our Day with SKP!